Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 11:08:03 -0400
Reply-To: Tom Buese <tantonbz@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Tom Buese <tantonbz@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Issue w/ 90 Euro spec doka heating levers
In-Reply-To: <vanagon%2013062521523845@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
The Euro version of the Vanagon, in this case a Transporter, has several
different things than a US Spec model- I am not an expert on these by any
means, but Jeff Schwaia, who imports them probably is, & as I understand
them Euro models have E-4 headlights w/ washers, no emergency flasher
switch, KPH instead of MPH, no rear side light reflectors, no concave
passenger side rearview mirror, but a flat mirror, possibly a different
chipped 2.1 engine (DJ112), etc. All of these things must be changed to US
Spec, except the engine, to be legal in the US, IIRC.
Dang, that is kinda what I was fearing. Then of course the volks in
Scandinavia probably don't worry to much about too much heat, sorta like us
in Maine, except it was 89 yesterday! I did drive it from CA to Maine w/
the window down to keep it comfy inside-good thing the weather was mild in
late April, early May.
Thanks for the help!
Cheers,
Mr. BZ
On Tue, Jun 25, 2013 at 9:52 PM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:
> At 07:09 PM 6/25/2013, Tom Buese wrote:
>
>> Dang if I can figure out the heater controls on my syncro doka! Yes, I
>>
>
> This is a bit presumptuous since I've never seen a '90 Euro-spec
> Doka...but anyway on the regular ones:
>
> The top lever controls airflow to the windshield. Right is more.
>
> The second lever controls air temperature (including the side vents
> on later ones). Right is hotter.
>
> The third lever controls airflow to your feet. Right is less.
>
> (And the fourth lever controls unheated airflow to the rear cabin roof
> vents.)
>
> There isn't any control on air into the system, only on air leaving it.
>
> So if you don't want heat, second lever all the way left. If that
> doesn't shut off the heat you can replace the heat valve or install a
> shutoff valve in the line or pinch the line shut with something that
> doesn't injure it. A pair of small wooden blocks with edges rounded
> over, clearance holes in one side and pilot holes in the other,
> screwed down over the hose would do it. Just remember that the space
> between the screws has to accommodate the hose width when it's pinched
> flat.
>
> Yrs,
> d
>
--
Tom Buese
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