Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 22:36:15 -0400
Reply-To: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator fan replacement
In-Reply-To: <8D040F3003B72E5-10FC-35046@webmail-m215.sysops.aol.com>
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At 10:13 PM 6/26/2013, David Clarkson wrote:
>It has been mentioned that the stock refrigerator cooling fan is
>much more efficient than the muffin type fans. I had purchased one
>of these a while back from a list vendor as a replacement for my
>non-functioning stock fan. Maybe I'll direct that one out of the
>city water port and wire it in with a switch to the stock fan. Is
>there anyone out there that knows where to obtain an original design
>or OEM refrigerator cooling fan?
The Fridge-Mate fan is practically a direct replacement, slightly
larger blade. You have to notch out the original mounting bracket to
clear the motor terminals, see
http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/Fridge.htm . Use the original
thermal switch rather than the one that comes mounted to the FridgeMate.
> I think that the two working together would make a noticeable
> difference. I also have purchased and not installed one of the
> "mixture enrichment" valves that gives more propane at startup
> from one of our well known list vendors.
Umm...which well-known list vendor? Link?
See the air pump mods on page 76.25 et. seq. -- notice they say to do
them only if you're having trouble lighting the beast. I suspect the
valve you mention has already been drilled out as specified in
Bentley, and would have the effect of supplying more air whilst
pumping rather than more fuel.
> Has anyone installed this part and had any noticeable improvement
> in ease of staring on propane? I am of course going to remove and
> invert the unit for 24 hours and vacuum out the exhaust but am
> reluctant to become more invasive into the burner chamber or should
> I go ahead and get into that area.
Dometic recommends that after servicing the unit you should invert it
before replacing it so as to make sure the fluids haven't pooled in
odd places. It's not necessary to leave it that way, and it has no
effect on the performance of the fridge, only on startup time the
first time after it's been serviced. A working unit gains nothing by
being removed and inverted.
> I don't want to disturb anything that is obviously sealed.
If you've gone to the trouble of taking it out and disturbing the
outside vent, it only makes sense to open the burner chamber and make
certain it's completely clean, and clean the orifice with alcohol and
compressed air. Do not put anything solid in/at/near/within seven
feet of the orifice.
> My fridge works well but I think that being a 1990 that it would
> benefit from the upside down treatment, the valve, working cooling
> fans and a general clean up. Do all of the exhaust gaskets have to
> be replaced or can they be re-used?
Check the o-rings where the flex tubes plug into the aluminum vent
fitting. I sealed mine up with RTV, but I understand that good
replacements can be gotten from hardware-store stock. The burner box
gasket is re-usable, but if it has a problem use high-temp "Copper"
Form-a-Gasket to replace it. Lay down a bead, install the box
loosely, then take up on the screws somewhat after a few hours
cure. Try to end up with similar thickness to the original
gasket. All seals must be perfect or the fridge will blow out on the highway.
When re-installing, make sure the vent fitting is lined up just right
before you put the outside parts on. A broomstick stuck in the flue
will let you adjust it. The little mounting screws should be thought
of as retainers, not devices to adjust the vent with. They can't do
it, and you'll strip them out trying. Be sure you understand the
vent assembly when you take it apart, and get it back together
correctly and straight.
Yours,
David
