Date:         Mon, 24 Jun 2013 12:02:59 -0400
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: Sink pump question
Comments: To: Eric Caron <ecaron1@COMCAST.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <CF573DC1-3E89-46C9-B6D1-395ABEF37371@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 11:49 AM 6/24/2013, Eric Caron wrote:
>         CAn someone let me know if I'm missing a step in turning on
> the sink pump?

The sink pump runs from the kitchen supply, 8-A fuse in little box at
base of driver's B-pillar.  The other 16-A fuse is for the fridge.

If the LED panel doesn't light up it's likely that fuse is bad/missing.

The LED panel must be plugged into its harness because the early
panels controlled the water pump supply with a big transistor.  Later
ones simply have a jumper on the panel side of the connector to
supply water pump power.

Pop the cap off the faucet.  You need +12V on one of the
terminals.  If you don't have it but do have power on the LED panel,
it's probably the connector between the two.  It can be partially
unplugged and not look it.

If you have +12 on one terminal, short it to the other with a clip
lead.  If the pump runs you have to clean up the switch contacts.

If the pump doesn't run, pull up the panel at the forward edge of the
pantry locker over the water tank and you'll see the blue (+) and
brown (-) wires from the pump connected to yellow and ?brown?
wires.  Check for +12 on the yellow (faucet switch on) and ground on
the other.  If you have both, pump is not connected firmly or has
failed.  Like the connector under the faucet, this one can be
half-plugged and look ok to the casual eye.

Yrs,
d