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Date:         Mon, 24 Jun 2013 12:02:59 -0400
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: Sink pump question
Comments: To: Eric Caron <ecaron1@COMCAST.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <CF573DC1-3E89-46C9-B6D1-395ABEF37371@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 11:49 AM 6/24/2013, Eric Caron wrote: > CAn someone let me know if I'm missing a step in turning on > the sink pump?

The sink pump runs from the kitchen supply, 8-A fuse in little box at base of driver's B-pillar. The other 16-A fuse is for the fridge.

If the LED panel doesn't light up it's likely that fuse is bad/missing.

The LED panel must be plugged into its harness because the early panels controlled the water pump supply with a big transistor. Later ones simply have a jumper on the panel side of the connector to supply water pump power.

Pop the cap off the faucet. You need +12V on one of the terminals. If you don't have it but do have power on the LED panel, it's probably the connector between the two. It can be partially unplugged and not look it.

If you have +12 on one terminal, short it to the other with a clip lead. If the pump runs you have to clean up the switch contacts.

If the pump doesn't run, pull up the panel at the forward edge of the pantry locker over the water tank and you'll see the blue (+) and brown (-) wires from the pump connected to yellow and ?brown? wires. Check for +12 on the yellow (faucet switch on) and ground on the other. If you have both, pump is not connected firmly or has failed. Like the connector under the faucet, this one can be half-plugged and look ok to the casual eye.

Yrs, d


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