Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2013 15:31:15 -0700
Reply-To: Tom Carchrae <tom@CARCHRAE.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Tom Carchrae <tom@CARCHRAE.NET>
Subject: Re: burning smell - brakes or tire?
In-Reply-To: <CAFNeVpFD0iMA+G_8spANivrE9V8+9Tv5Q4w-4P4hT=1f0XVL_g@mail.gmail.com>
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Got into it today and pulled out the pads and gave it a clean. It
certainly was a bit crusty in there and the pads took a lot of gentle
tapping to get them out. What I presume is the silencer plate was pretty
torn up - much of which probably happened as I was pulling it out. It was
definitely the calliper, as the wheel spins easily without the pads in.
Pics here: https://www.copy.com/s/Wiiw2MRUZ3QL/caliper
I sourced a rebuilt one at $108 with a core swap (at Lordco - anyone in BC
have an account name I could use?) which is great since I can do it as soon
as I get over to the mainland.
On Tue, Jul 9, 2013 at 8:08 AM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote:
> Thanks Dennis. The rebuilds didn't look too expensive ($50 + $50 core
> deposit) and would probably be much better than what I could do. I assume
> you want to replace both sides to ensure equal braking.
>
> Thanks for the info about the Girling changes.
>
> I will try and clean this one out a bit, it had been sitting quite a but
> this winter. I will order a replacement set as well, and it is probably a
> good idea to replace the rubber hose while I'm at it.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 9:22 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>> If the calipers are hung up or dragging the only correct fix is too
>> replace
>> them. They are not lifetime parts and probably should be renewed every 2nd
>> or 3rd brake pad replacement. Rebuilds are readily available. The Ate and
>> Girling are interchangeable. The only difference is the location of the
>> brake tube connection. A 6" or 8" tube assembly can be bent to make it
>> work.
>> You can also get this at the FLAPS.
>> A small punch will easily knck those pins out and back in. There should be
>> silencer plates between the pads and pistons and an anti-rattle plate on
>> top. Where the pad sit inside the caliper housing make sure there is no
>> corrosion and that the pads can move freely. The sides should have a light
>> coating of brake grease to prevent future corrosion from jamming the pads.
>>
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
>> Of
>> Tom Carchrae
>> Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 11:30 PM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: burning smell - brakes or tire?
>>
>> Thanks Scott. I should have mentioned, it is an 84 - and I think they are
>> the Teves type of caliper. (similar to these
>>
>> http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_739_420/brake_caliper_-_ate_right.html
>> )
>>
>> I did look at the mechanism and we had a chat. It was not listening, so I
>> gently whacked it and sprayed it with various chemicals. Then I felt bad
>> and went and had dinner...
>>
>> I will try the piston workout tomorrow. Aside from working it in/out, is
>> there any stuff I should (or should not) spray on it? I gave it a bit of
>> WD40 and then some brake cleaner later on. I would guess that brake fluid
>> is probably good for it - although bad for everything else.
>>
>> The other general fear I have is that this is not the brake and perhaps
>> the
>> wheel bearings or something else. This is why I wanted to get the pads
>> out
>> and see if the wheel spins. I just need to find the right tool to tap out
>> those pins that hold the pads in.
>>
>> Would flushing the whole system help? I read this
>>
>> http://www.vanagontravels.com/2012/08/vanagon-repair-brake-master-cylinder.h
>> tml-
>> but it is not clear what you do with the two pints of rubbing alcohol they
>> recommend. Removing the calliper and soaking it sounds tempting if it
>> does
>> not yield to the workout.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 7:30 PM, Scott Ohana
>> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>wrote:
>>
>> > if it's the two piston caliper style..
>> > the outer pistons on those tend to seize up over many years.
>> >
>> > choices are ...
>> > ( this first one is unorthodox, can be highly effective, and is free ..
>> > but don't anyone try this !! )
>> >
>> > If you can get the piston to move at all, like pry it back with the
>> > pad or an old pad ...if it'll move at all ...
>> > then use brake pressure to push the piston out a little, let off the
>> > brake ..lever the piston back into the caliper a little ..say 1/8 inch
>> > at a time, back and forth..
>> > 'exercise' the piston this way ..back and forth, back and forth until
>> > it can travel smoothly up to half an inch say.
>> >
>> > that one is only for the very smart, confident, clever and brave and
>> > resourceful...all others don't even think about it.
>> >
>> > Next ...yup ..rebuild the caliper properly , or install a new rebuilt
>> > one.
>> >
>> > There was a time in the 60's say ..and before that ..
>> > people just looked at a mechanism..
>> > they could easily tell how it worked quite often..
>> > then they'd think up some way to adjust it, service it, lube it, tweak
>> > it somehow so it worked again.
>> >
>> > That was then though ..
>> > this is now ..apparently that's a completely lost art , from what I
>> > gather.
>> >
>> > Pre-computer people would just figure stuff out. Wasn't hard either.
>> > People were taught to build things with their hands and brains too,
>> > starting before they were 10 years old often.
>> > Back then.
>> > Before everything was electronic, plastic, and disposable, and became
>> > obsolete in 4 years anyway.
>> > 'fixing stuff' ...what an odd ancient concept.
>> >
>> >
>> > On 7/8/2013 7:08 PM, Tom Carchrae wrote:
>> >
>> > Thanks Mike and Dennis.
>> >
>> > I got a chance to look at it today. The calliper seems a bit stuck on
>> > that side, certainly compared to the other front wheel which spins for
>> > much longer. I loosened the bleeder and it didn't get any easier. A
>> > bit of tapping on the pad made it a little looser.
>> >
>> > I'll try and remove the brake pad on that wheel tomorrow and give it a
>> > clean out. It is all a bit rusty/crusty in there. I guess I may need
>> > to take the calliper off and replace/rebuild.
>> >
>> > Tom
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 12:11 PM, Mike Riley <mkriley@fuse.net>
>> <mkriley@fuse.net> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > the brake pedal going soft was from WATER boiling in the brake fluid
>> > and the sticking cliper also.
>> > CHANGE THE BRAKE FLUID NOW! if your lucky you may have gotten it in
>> time.
>> > mike
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
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