Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2013 10:35:14 -0700
Reply-To: Jeff Schwaia <vw.doka@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jeff Schwaia <vw.doka@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Marker light tip wanted-replacement option.
In-Reply-To: <BAY152-DS16F2C85E6FE55AD65C13EFA0790@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
LED is nice, but those are really, really ugly...
Cheers,
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Dennis Haynes
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2013 9:58 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Marker light tip wanted-replacement option.
I recently installed a pair of these on Fun Bus. With #6 or #8 sheet metal
screws these will fit with the original screw inserts in place. They are
completely sealed so just splice the tow wires, (polarity matters). You can
use a sealant or a gasket to close the space between the body and light
caused by the plastic screw nuts or remove them and use #8 screws, nuts and
washers. These are bright and make it real easy to see the road lines in the
mirrors.
Dennis
http://vehiclelight.com/68r.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Scott Ohana
Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 9:43 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Marker light tip wanted
twotips to add..
1. spary wd-40 under the edge of the rubber boot .helps it come off nicely.
2. when assebling the unit back onto the van, do it with the parking lights
on ..
that way if any little bump makes the bulb loose contact ..you'll know it
while you are working on it.
3. yes..lens must face the right way ..upside down and the screw holes won't
line up so well..
and ....what keeps those white plastic tabs from spinning in the body sheet
metal ?
look at the back of the lens ..
there are little 'wall's that engage the white plastic body part, where the
screws go, to keep them from spinning as you remove or tighten the screws.
On 7/8/2013 3:21 PM, David Beierl wrote:
> At 05:50 PM 7/8/2013, David Beierl wrote:
> But now your troubles are beginning. If you have good spatial
>> perception I'll describe what you'll find; otherwise you'll be better
>> off getting help.
>
> Ok, here ya go.
>
> Once the boot is free you can follow the two wires down to two fast-on
> type terminals which you will not disturb. These terminals extend
> perpendicularly from a metal plate which is the lamp fixture itself,
> and which is clipped onto the back of the plastic lens assembly.
>
> You will feel two clips at the periphery of the metal plate, a short
> one somewhat by itself, and opposite it a long one in between the
> terminals. Each one engages a slot in the plate.
>
> The short clip is immovable. The long one is slit down the length of
> the tubular lens assembly and can be pressed outward slightly to
> release one side of the plate, which then pivots up and out.
>
> Once the plate is out, the bulb is a regular bayonet-base lamp, slight
> press in and quarter-turn to the left to remove.
>
> Press in and quarter-turn to the right to replace. Stop and test for
> working light now!
>
> Now you come to the interesting part. The plate must be oriented
> correctly as there's an extension on the lamp side that fits into a
> relieved area of the plastic barrel. The plate must be offered up to
> the fixed clip at about a 45 degree angle and the notch fitted exactly
> to the clip. If you succeed in this you can then rotate the plate
> down flat, engaging the movable clip as it closes.
>
> If you or your assistant breaks a clip I suggest using double-sided
> mounting tape to secure the plate onto the plastic barrel.
>
> Then you slide the rubber boot back down over the barrel. All done.
>
> You may find that the mounting screws line up better with the fitting
> oriented one way or the other.
>
> Yours,
> David
>
>
>> Yours,
>> David
>
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