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Date:         Tue, 9 Jul 2013 19:57:30 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: burning smell - brakes or tire?
Comments: To: Tom Carchrae <tom@CARCHRAE.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <CAFNeVpFO5no5T+d2JEiXCyzzT3gX02UUZx=sEom_no7RyQGT=Q@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

While it's a part check the thickness of the rotor. 11mm is the minimum. Get good quality pads. FF or FG friction rating. Stopping ability is more important than long life.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Tom Carchrae Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2013 6:31 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: burning smell - brakes or tire?

Got into it today and pulled out the pads and gave it a clean. It certainly was a bit crusty in there and the pads took a lot of gentle tapping to get them out. What I presume is the silencer plate was pretty torn up - much of which probably happened as I was pulling it out. It was definitely the calliper, as the wheel spins easily without the pads in. Pics here: https://www.copy.com/s/Wiiw2MRUZ3QL/caliper

I sourced a rebuilt one at $108 with a core swap (at Lordco - anyone in BC have an account name I could use?) which is great since I can do it as soon as I get over to the mainland.

On Tue, Jul 9, 2013 at 8:08 AM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote:

> Thanks Dennis. The rebuilds didn't look too expensive ($50 + $50 core > deposit) and would probably be much better than what I could do. I > assume you want to replace both sides to ensure equal braking. > > Thanks for the info about the Girling changes. > > I will try and clean this one out a bit, it had been sitting quite a > but this winter. I will order a replacement set as well, and it is > probably a good idea to replace the rubber hose while I'm at it. > > Tom > > > > > On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 9:22 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote: > >> If the calipers are hung up or dragging the only correct fix is too >> replace them. They are not lifetime parts and probably should be >> renewed every 2nd or 3rd brake pad replacement. Rebuilds are readily >> available. The Ate and Girling are interchangeable. The only >> difference is the location of the brake tube connection. A 6" or 8" >> tube assembly can be bent to make it work. >> You can also get this at the FLAPS. >> A small punch will easily knck those pins out and back in. There >> should be silencer plates between the pads and pistons and an >> anti-rattle plate on top. Where the pad sit inside the caliper >> housing make sure there is no corrosion and that the pads can move >> freely. The sides should have a light coating of brake grease to prevent future corrosion from jamming the pads. >> >> >> Dennis >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On >> Behalf Of Tom Carchrae >> Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 11:30 PM >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >> Subject: Re: burning smell - brakes or tire? >> >> Thanks Scott. I should have mentioned, it is an 84 - and I think >> they are the Teves type of caliper. (similar to these >> >> http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_739_420/brake_caliper_-_ate_rig >> ht.html >> ) >> >> I did look at the mechanism and we had a chat. It was not listening, >> so I gently whacked it and sprayed it with various chemicals. Then I >> felt bad and went and had dinner... >> >> I will try the piston workout tomorrow. Aside from working it >> in/out, is there any stuff I should (or should not) spray on it? I >> gave it a bit of >> WD40 and then some brake cleaner later on. I would guess that brake >> fluid is probably good for it - although bad for everything else. >> >> The other general fear I have is that this is not the brake and >> perhaps the wheel bearings or something else. This is why I wanted >> to get the pads out and see if the wheel spins. I just need to find >> the right tool to tap out those pins that hold the pads in. >> >> Would flushing the whole system help? I read this >> >> http://www.vanagontravels.com/2012/08/vanagon-repair-brake-master-cyl >> inder.h >> tml- >> but it is not clear what you do with the two pints of rubbing alcohol >> they recommend. Removing the calliper and soaking it sounds tempting >> if it does not yield to the workout. >> >> Thanks again, >> >> Tom >> >> >> >> >> On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 7:30 PM, Scott Ohana >> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>wrote: >> >> > if it's the two piston caliper style.. >> > the outer pistons on those tend to seize up over many years. >> > >> > choices are ... >> > ( this first one is unorthodox, can be highly effective, and is free .. >> > but don't anyone try this !! ) >> > >> > If you can get the piston to move at all, like pry it back with the >> > pad or an old pad ...if it'll move at all ... >> > then use brake pressure to push the piston out a little, let off >> > the brake ..lever the piston back into the caliper a little ..say >> > 1/8 inch at a time, back and forth.. >> > 'exercise' the piston this way ..back and forth, back and forth >> > until it can travel smoothly up to half an inch say. >> > >> > that one is only for the very smart, confident, clever and brave >> > and resourceful...all others don't even think about it. >> > >> > Next ...yup ..rebuild the caliper properly , or install a new >> > rebuilt one. >> > >> > There was a time in the 60's say ..and before that .. >> > people just looked at a mechanism.. >> > they could easily tell how it worked quite often.. >> > then they'd think up some way to adjust it, service it, lube it, >> > tweak it somehow so it worked again. >> > >> > That was then though .. >> > this is now ..apparently that's a completely lost art , from what I >> > gather. >> > >> > Pre-computer people would just figure stuff out. Wasn't hard either. >> > People were taught to build things with their hands and brains too, >> > starting before they were 10 years old often. >> > Back then. >> > Before everything was electronic, plastic, and disposable, and >> > became obsolete in 4 years anyway. >> > 'fixing stuff' ...what an odd ancient concept. >> > >> > >> > On 7/8/2013 7:08 PM, Tom Carchrae wrote: >> > >> > Thanks Mike and Dennis. >> > >> > I got a chance to look at it today. The calliper seems a bit stuck >> > on that side, certainly compared to the other front wheel which >> > spins for much longer. I loosened the bleeder and it didn't get >> > any easier. A bit of tapping on the pad made it a little looser. >> > >> > I'll try and remove the brake pad on that wheel tomorrow and give >> > it a clean out. It is all a bit rusty/crusty in there. I guess I >> > may need to take the calliper off and replace/rebuild. >> > >> > Tom >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 12:11 PM, Mike Riley <mkriley@fuse.net> >> <mkriley@fuse.net> wrote: >> > >> > >> > the brake pedal going soft was from WATER boiling in the brake >> > fluid and the sticking cliper also. >> > CHANGE THE BRAKE FLUID NOW! if your lucky you may have gotten it >> > in >> time. >> > mike >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> >


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