Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2013 07:44:48 -0400
Reply-To: Stuart Fedak <ve3smf@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stuart Fedak <ve3smf@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: 11mm brake line wrench
In-Reply-To: <BAY152-DS11D51A2DC20E6BD2A7CE12A07A0@phx.gbl>
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I would agree on the heat wrench. Most of my experience has been on the restoration of military 1/4 ton jeeps. I usually try the penetrating fluid bath and other such preparation, but I often had to escalate to using selective heat with a propane torch. I often try the tightening, first, then untightening approach. If that does not work, I have found that it sometimes leads to just cutting off the metal lines as close as I can to the offending nut. I then can use a 1/4 inch drive and a six sided socket over the nut. I usually will escalate to this before the nut has been stripped.
One of the best things I have picked up is a set for flairing the nut ends on new brake line. I buy some of the pre cut brake line with ends already installed and some bulk line as well. I just manufacture hard brake lines as I go. I find this is actually faster than fooling around for hours trying to take off lines that will have to be cut off anyways.
The problem with damaging the nuts is you may get them off the one time, and may be able to tighten them back on, but you will not be able to get them off a second time. You are just leaving a problem for yourself, or some one else later on. You do this enough times and you have replaced the entire brake line system.
When working on the lines or stems brake cylinders, I use the 1/4 inch driver and six sided socket. You have to remember that the bleeders are hollow tubes, and not very strong. They are very easy to break. One more reason to bleed the brake system every two years to keep the brake bleeders working.
In the Republic of Kalifornia, you may not have to go to the above extremes. In Ontario Kanada, with the road salt, sand and rust, the entire brake system takes a beating.
Cheers!
Stuart
Sent from my electronic umbilicus
On 2013-07-10, at 1:40 AM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
> The wrench you need is often known as a "heat wrench". Yes a torch! A good oxy-acetylene torch carefully used will get these fitting a part easily. When heating the hose connections plan to replace them just in case.
>
> Dennis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Mike Riley
> Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 1:04 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: 11mm brake line wrench
>
> I guess I need to clarify things a bit. I have several sets of flare nut wrenches and get no joy from them. The problem is not twisting the lines but breaking the nut loose without rounding it off. Tried several sets and all the same, they spring open when subjected to the force needed to break the nut loose. The nuts have had a bath in penitrating oil to no avail. Sometimes they warp the nut instead of rounding it off. I have had sucess with carefully using vice grips but don't like it as it is very easy to mangle the nut. need some kind of wrench that closes the gap.
> mike
