Date:         Thu, 18 Jul 2013 10:32:16 -0400
Reply-To:     Marc Perdue <mcperdue@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Marc Perdue <mcperdue@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Sound proofing, was: Muffler question
In-Reply-To:  <CALw9qvvhtSSH7YrbnahbxZv8TDp5BcOXQF5w20z1EM9r1VVKvw@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I put Dynamat in my passenger door before I knew anything about the "art"
of sound deadening. I covered the entire inside of the door as much as I
could. The results were pretty amazing in that the door sounded more like a
Mercedes door than a metal garbage can when you closed it. I have since
found that you really only need to cover about 25% of the metal to get the
same benefits.

If I were to do it now, I would focus on certain areas:
1) Front and sliding door;
2) If you can get to it, the metal behind the dash. You get a LOT of noise
from the road and rain on that big sheet of metal.
3) The roof over the front of the van.

The poptop is a bit of a problem for which I don't have a solution.

I would be sure the van has air conditioning, and here's why: I use it most
in the Summer. I don't have air-conditioning, so I have to drive with the
windows down. No amount of sound deadening can fix the sound of the wind
coming in your windows. When my van gets back from having the cancer
removed, that will be one of the next things I do, get A/C installed.

Finally, I would put in a high quality sub-woofer. With a built-in
cross-over, it takes a huge load off the small speakers to the point that
they sound MUCH better. Those little Blauplunkt 3" paper cone speakers are
actually very efficient for what they are, as long as you're not asking
them to do too much. With a decent, powerful head unit, it can drive the
front speakers well and the sub fills in the rest of the space in the van
pretty well without making the sound muddy.

Good luck, Eric!!

Marc Perdue


On Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 8:56 AM, Jim Ogul <jimogul70@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have found that as I have gotten older, my declining hearing accomplishes
> the same result as adding sound insulation, and its free!
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 8:33 AM, Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@yahoo.com
> >wrote:
>
> > I have used both the "official" B-Quiet and the HoDepot roofing product
> > like Peel and Seal.  Both seem to work and the latter is cheaper, about
> > half the price per square foot.  After experiencing the ooze problem I
> > simply taped over the joints and exposed edges with metal foil tape.
>  Keeps
> > the stickum off things it should not be stuckum to.
> >
> > Stephen
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> >  From: Loren Busch <starwagen@GMAIL.COM>
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2013 7:14 PM
> > Subject: Re: Sound proofing, was: Muffler question
> >
> >
> > RE: Peel and Seal for Sound Proofing
> > A warning.  If you use Peel and Seal under your carpet in the living area
> > of a Westy at some time in the future you will go to lift up the carpet
> > and, because of the weight on top from using that surface, you will find
> > that the carpet is glued to the floor!  Carpet will still come up, with
> > some effort, to reveal that the Peel and Seal 'stickum' has oozed out and
> > becomes one awful mess of impossible to get off black, tar like glue.
>  And
> > anything you place the carpet on will get it's full share also.
>  Including
> > your hands :) (you can get it off of some things with charcoal lighter
> > fluid).  Ask me how I know....
> > BTW, I have been very satisfied with the Peel and Seal otherwise and a
> lot
> > cheaper than near identical products sold for sound deadening at a higher
> > price. No smell from day one and no other problems other than as noted
> > above.
> >
>