Date:         Thu, 18 Jul 2013 09:51:07 -0700
Reply-To:     Andrew Martin <ramblinvan@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Andrew Martin <ramblinvan@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Sound proofing, was: Muffler question
In-Reply-To:  <CAFwVvJDfQRhcYMm5uHTpRbqdfKQFOUmTB7a_Fwd=bv=ahzt_Rw@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Roofing products advocates:  No need to read my narrow views... If they work
for you that is all that matters.  Just delete my message now.

I've used the peal and stick types of sound deadener, B-Quiet, Fat Mat etc
and now prefer to use a water based spray-on products like Quiet Car, Lizard
Skin, etc.    I have found that it is much easier to apply in tight spaces,
fast to apply in large areas, very low VOC, no off gassing when dry and will
not burn.  No rolling and rubbing the blood out of my fingers!

It can also be brushed on but it goes on nicely with a $30 Schutz Gun and a
small construction type compressor will provide enough air.  Carefully mask
everything you don't want it on!  The first coat takes 4 or 5 hours to dry,
the second and third coats take less time.

With any product you must prep the areas that you plan to apply it to
thoroughly.  Oil Eater is a great product for removing the body cavity
grease and grime BUT it must be thoroughly rinsed with water and the
surfaces allowed to dry before applying products.   Acetone, alcohol, paint
thinner, liquid prep, etc will also work but my increased sensitivity to
these chemicals make them undesirable to me.

I recommend taking a little extra time cleaning out the factory drain holes
and protect them from being blocked by products.  Consider removing the
front glass and regulators before spraying.  The time it takes to do this is
minimal compared to masking and/or cleaning the overspray off unintended
targets.  If you do get some over spray be sure to wipe it off with a damp
rag before it dries as it is quite difficult to remove after it has set up
and doing so will often damage painted surfaces. I keep a bucket of warm
water and a rag nearby when spraying... "stuff" happens fast!

Best bang for the buck IMHO: inside front doors, inside slider (easy to
access),under front seats/inside battery box/storage area, front floor area
and up under dash (with dash and heater box removed), under bench seat and
above engine and transmission.  I have also been pleased with the results or
removing the old insulation above the transmission and replacing it with
modern sound deadening, sound absorbing and sound blocking materials.  Yup.
Three different products!

Personally, I would NEVER use peal and seal roofing materials as I've spent
a considerable amount of time cleaning sticky gooey runny stuff. Not to
single out roofing materials, I've also cleaned up the mess from
inexpensive/discount sound deadening products. (Imagine large sticky lumps
of stiff cardboardy material that seems to only want to lay in the bottom of
the door just out of reach, sticking to itself and to the door just enough
so that it will only come out in small chunks...)   If any product does not
adhere properly it will make a real mess particularly inside the front doors
on the window regulators and even on the glass and scraper seals.  Uuuuhhg.
Prep work is EVERYTHING!

E-mail for photos, flame suit ON!

Andrew