Date:         Fri, 26 Jul 2013 09:36:05 -0700
Reply-To:     neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         neil n <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: [WetWesties] H3 Bulb(s) Factory Flaw? PICS
Comments: To: David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net>
Comments: cc: all listees <wetwesties@yahoogroups.com>
In-Reply-To:  <51f2a2f3.c5b6340a.7678.ffffad65@mx.google.com>
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So electrical "Liquid Tape" won't hold up over the long term? I
originally insulated the connector as I'd assumed it somehow got
pushed over while I was installing the light. Doing that again on the
new bulb was likely unneeded as the connector likely didn't migrate
during light installation to the rear bumper.

I appreciate the heads up as may others too. I gather later model year
Vanagons use the H3?

FWIW, looking at a web page for the "Star Brite" Liquid tape I used:

http://www.starbrite.com/item/liquid-electrical-tape?category_id=568

I see a rating to 255º F    Would that suffice? In my case, the light
will see short "on" times unlike it's original intended use as a
driving light.

Neil.

On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 9:25 AM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:
> At 11:59 AM 7/26/2013, neil n wrote:
>>
>> Easy fix but and the bulb itself may be just fine, but have to wonder
>
>
> Vinyl dip is not a workable fix for a halogen bulb, all it will do is
> convert to carbon which is conductive.  And smoke up everything in the
> process.
>
> H3 lamps burn extremely hot, you'll see blueing of the metal after they've
> run for a while, and may have heat-related problems with the ground
> connections.
>
> I could see possibly using muffler cement as an insulator if necessary, but
> physical space is really all you need.  You're only working with twelve
> volts.
>
> Yrs,
> d
>



-- 
Neil n

Blog: tubaneil.blogspot.ca

'88 Westy http://tinyurl.com/c8rlw6p

'81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"  http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

Vanagon VAG Gas inline-VR Engine Swap Group:

http://tinyurl.com/d7gd5ej