Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 09:19:49 -0500
Reply-To: JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Paint job pricing-Doing the exhaust right!
In-Reply-To: <BAY179-DS812358E315BDE2C65EDB0A0450@phx.gbl>
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Dennis,
I've pretty much followed your instructions here. As for the CAT - I
shook it vigorously - nothing loose inside - though muffler was quite
another matter. Also, the Cat was much cleaner inside than I expected -
it is after all -15 years old. There were only a few specks of carbon on
the plates. The muffler was installed new along with the CAT. The input
pipe and flange on the muffler is what broke off. The fralnge support
bracket was broken, the weld where the pipe went in cracked completely
around, and it broke loose inside. There was a lot of loose crud inside
because I could hear it rattling around. But the muffler body itself was
intact. Not burned through anywhere. Obviously some vibrational issue
was at hand - but after 15 years - who knows. I have been careful on the
realignment however, as it goes together.
John
On 8/13/2013 10:56 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> I have seen many exhaust systems have problems due to incorrect mounting and
> using the wrong parts. Part of craftsmanship is having the required
> resources such as tools, space, and good materials.
> You have to give some thought as to why your muffler failed at the inlet.
> Some combination of age, corrosion, heat etc. A contributing factor for this
> failure here is miss alignment to the cat causing stress and loose parts
> allowing for vibration movements.
>
> Where the brackets are connected to the engine mount you need good hardware
> here. Most important especially with the slotted holes in the bracket is the
> washers. Now since you got your hardware at local sources most likely the
> washers are garbage. Yes washers also come in grades. You want washers that
> are designed to be used with PC 10.9 or 12.9 fasteners. From experience you
> really want good fasteners here also.
> While corrosion is not as much of an issue where you live as it is here I
> have seen many bolts become one with the aluminum in that bracket. You want
> those fasteners to have some type of zinc or "organic" coating on them. Do
> not just relay on the black oxide types. An Anti-seize compound here can be
> you friend. While the bolts for the straps do not have to strong plating or
> stainless screws can also be helpful in the future.
>
> Speaking of doing a good job since the muffler is off finish removing the
> catalyst and inspect it from both sides. Any looseness or burning-blocking
> of the guts means time for a new one. I've replaced many a muffler due to
> the cat breaking up and filling the muffler with the pieces.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> JRodgers
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:54 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Paint job pricing
>
> For that kind of money - I would do it myself. Might take a while - but it
> would be right what I finished. That's my biggest problem with the crafts -
> crappy workmanship. Dedication to the craft is minimal in most places. You
> can still find it -= but boy does it ever take some digging.
> I've had to fix to many jobs that were plain crappy. Live through to many
> horror stories.
>
> Just like my muffler nightmare - my problem - but it's gonna be right when
> I'm done, no questions asked. The muffler will not fall out in the street!
>
> I bet Jim is happy with his home paint job. He knows it's right.
>
> John
>
> On 8/13/2013 9:11 PM, Jason wrote:
>> I wouldn't expect much for under $3-4K in terms of quality.
>
>
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