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Date:         Sat, 24 Aug 2013 21:54:25 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Bus Boys Oil Cooler Kit
Comments: To: Paul Rogers <wognacious@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <0F5A9776-8B3A-4C7B-AE72-FAA2A3D1B841@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

I for one am a fan of adding an oil cooler to the Waterboxer. However I still ask the customer why? For moderate driving speeds and loads it should not be necessary. If you have oil pressure or temperature problem that probably should be fixed. A well designed and installed cooling system will cost as much as a down payment on an engine job and if your engine is bad it will need to be done at some point anyway. If your driving demands are such that the oil cooling system is getting taxed that you should consider adding additional cooling. Do keep in mind that no matter what design and quality of components you use you are ultimately adding additional points of failure. These failures can not only create the inconvenience of a breakdown but hot oil flying all over the place can also be a fire hazard and dropping oil on the road or spraying the car behind you can create some nasty cleanup costs. As part of these considerations you want to keep the oil lines low and as much as possible out of the engine compartment. The one thing worse than a gasoline fire is a fire with gasoline and oil or diesel fuel mixed in. One burns hot and fast, the other slow. Add them both and you got a real mess. If you have a camper with propane you'll have some more fun.

That said the most important part is determining the capacity required and the expected usage. Do you have oil temperature and pressure gauges now? That will tell you a lot. From experience flat plate coolers such as http://www.holley.com/21600ERL.asp work the best. Oil is difficult to cool as it creates a self-insulating layer. This design ensures contact without outer stagnation and dwell time needed to give the oil time to shed the heat. The 16 plate is my standard for the Waterboxer. You will need a thermostat. Next is location. Primary cooling should never rely completely on an electric fan. The 16 or 19 plate can be fitted in front of the radiator-AC condenser. This works best for highway travel and for low speed operation the radiator fan will supply air flow when needed. At low engine speeds oil cooling is usually not needed. The oil will follow the coolant temperature.

For the 2.1L engines there is also the choice of where to preserve or discard the original oil to water heat exchanger. If using a "sandwich" adapter there is also the choice of placing the new oil cooler before or after the original heat exchanger. Unless you deal with really cold weather and short trips my choice is to remove the original cooler.

Next choice is to either use a sandwich adapter with a thermostat or a remote thermostat. I find the best control is a remote. Most of the sandwich adapter thermostats have limited bypass so some oil always flows through the cooler. Keep in mind that most oil cooler thermostats will start to cool as early as 160F and are usually in full cooling mode at 180 or so. This allows use of lighter viscosity oils in cold weather as the oil temperature is now somewhat effected by temperature. Regardless of how much oil cooling capacity you have the combination of flow (volume over time) and the cooler outlet approaching ambient limit with enough speed and load you will see time when the oil temp will still rise above the cooler thermostat setting.

Now for the oil filter placement. Some suggest that you want the filter before the cooler as the hot oil flows better. Well if the thermostat is working only warm oil will be coming back to the engine. Over time the system will need to be opened for service, hoses will fail internally and other stuff just happens. I want that filter to catch everything that might come back to the engine. The sandwich adapter will usually work that way anyway.

For the hoses I like the Aeroquip "Socketless". Reasonable price, easy to work with, and proven reliability. However, I like to keep hose sections short. I like to use 5/8 or 3/4 copper or steel tube for most of the trip. I use 3/8 copper from the sandwich adapter to an in line thermostat mounted to a bracket at the front of the engine. Then 2ft. hose sections to the steel or copper tubing. Up front short hose sections from the tube to the cooler.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Paul Rogers Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 12:24 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Bus Boys Oil Cooler Kit

Howdy, I'm thinking about getting one of these kits and would appreciate any input/thoughts from the list. I'm not committed to this one yet so if there are any suggestions on other similar products I all ears. TIA, Paul in Tracy

Sent from my iPlace


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