Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2013 14:51:05 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Organization: Cosmic Reminders
Subject: Re: off with her heads
In-Reply-To: <CAFNeVpHpAgSbqOgxgH-K-igHcJOGeoEVAZPkDgbFZroK8BP_VQ@mail.gmail.com>
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See below -
On 10/6/2013 12:17 PM, Tom Carchrae wrote:
> My head removal is going ok so far. (84 1.9L) I have spent relatively
> little time on it so far, but am keen to get the job finished before too
> long.
>
> Only minor exhaust wrestling - one broken stud (although with an ample
> amount remaining to grip and remove). I will replace with all new
> fasteners; I would love to get the van-cafe set, which seems like a deal
> for $18, but the ~$50 shipping to canada makes that pretty expensive. :/
>
> I have the heads loosened, but not fully removed. I'm now faced with the
> typical cylinder stuck to head issue, and after some tapping and poking
> with the tools I had on hand, I am going to buy a suitably sized pry bar to
> stick in there behind the tabs. That all seems pretty straightforward.
I hope you are soaking those copioously in a good penetrating oil
..where the barrels are stuck in the heads.
I have seen them desperately corroded into the heads..
and on one set of Brazilian new 1.9 pistons and barrels..
the top of the barrel was a jam fit into the head..I had to lap them in
with valve grinding compound until it was a proper 'close' slide fit.
> On the driver side, I have not removed the water pump or thermostat
> housing. Do I need to? It is attached to the head with a very short
> rubber tube, that does not feel very flexible - I had originally hoped I
> could slide the head off and that rubber would bend a bit and come off but
> I'm not sure about that.
It's very good to separate the t-stat housing from the water pump..
as those 3 1/2 inch long bolts can get horribly corroded into the t-stat
housing.
Like won't even come apart ...
Much mo' betta to re-do that whole area now.
New short hose there of course.
regarding leaving parts still attached to a head...
I sure hope the heads are going into a machine shop for a minor cleaning
up/valve job, and a machine shop would want the bare head of course.
> When I pulled the driver's side push rods, the bottoms of them appeared to
> have black stuff cooked on to the metal, not serious amounts, but the other
> side's push rods were all shiny and cle
Makes me think of undercoating on there. I suspect it's nothing to
worry about.
> an looking. Is that suspicious?
>
> What I can see of the heads looks a bit crusty, but hopefully I'll get a
> better view soon when the cylinder sleeves are un-stuck.
>
> The rubber seal (looked like a thin rubber band) around the end of the
> sleeves were badly damaged on one side. I also pulled out a chewing gum
> sized wad of some strange blue stuff - looked nearly like blue-tack - or
> maybe blueberry bubble gum?!?... There was also a lot of sealant around
> the waterjacket seal, which seemed normal, but was a different colour (more
> white-coloured).
there are o-rings at the top and bottom of the barrels. The very thin
green one at the top is always crudy and hard ..I think they last about
4 yrs or so at the most. The black ones on the bottoms of the
barrels....I've just never had any problem there ever.
Those can be replaced without taking the barrel fully off the piston.
The rings will stretch over the barrel and go into position.
Very important on the green o-rings ..
lube the inside of the head where it slides over those green o-rings
with vaseline.
You don't want one of those green o=rings getting snagged lowering the
head over the barrels.
If ever there was a job to by hyper careful about ........it's all in
the details let's say.
>
> The engine is still in the van at this point. I may drop it out, but will
> see how I go. I bought a VW engine bench stand mount just in case. As I
> understand it, the worst part of leaving the engine in there, aside from a
> sore back, is getting everything lined up when it is vertical, and it
> sounds like grease will work well as a temporary 'glue' for any gaskets
> that don't get sealant on them - and probably a pushrod tube holder
> (styrofoam and duct tape?).
Not a problem at all ........with engine horizontal, use the pushrods to
keep the push rod tubes in place as you fiddle the head onto the push
rod tubes..
Then take the push rods back out until you are putting on the rocker amrs.
Be extra careful the pushrods are centered in the lifters ! Use a small
light to confirm.
Another minor trick I like to do ....When I've gooped up the rubber
gasket and I'm putting the head onto the barrels and push rods ..
I don't goop the cylinder head nuts at that point.
I just torque the clean and lightly lubed nuts, and clean studs ....to
about 25 ..
plenty enough to seat the rubber gasket and sealant...and let it cure.
I do both sides.
then I remove one head nut at a time....put the yellow goop on ..
bring them all in the right pattern in steps to the spec'd 37 ft lbs.
then rockers and pushrods of course.
If ever there was a job where near extreme meticulousness pays off
..this is one for sure !
have fun !
Scott
Enjoying the job so far. We'll see, I may be cursing a bit more when I
am re-assembling. Tom
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