Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 20:32:53 -0600
Reply-To: Max Wellhouse <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Max Wellhouse <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
Subject: Re: Coolant Pipe repair
In-Reply-To: <BAY407-EAS432A1C6316E29B08F803D11A0F20@phx.gbl>
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On 11/7/2013 7:13 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> Your best bet is going to be replacing the pipes. A number of vendors are
> selling the stainless steel replacements. They can be changed without
> dropping the fuel tank with some effort. The front clamp is the most
> difficult to deal with especially to re-install it. At some point you can
> save money for now and use that for the tow home and the inevitable engine
> replacement. Once they start to crack they can fail in places not just near
> the ends. As for "glues" these pipes do a lot of expansion and contraction
> with the temperature changes. This makes patching even more of a challenge.
> There are some Devcon epoxies that I have had success with. The pipes
> failing can also be a sign that you are experiencing cooling system
> problems. They don't take overheating well.
>
> Dennis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> John Goubeaux
> Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2013 6:39 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Coolant Pipe repair
>
> 90 2.1L
>
> Does anyone have any advice on coolant pipe repairs ?
>
> I was about to change out the two large hoses that feed the radiator and
> noticed that where the return hose clamps to the return straight pipe there
> appears to be a small crack that is allowing the coolant to weep past the
> clamp. I was hoping to not replace the pipes just yet but realize the
> plastic gets brittle and will fail SO thinking that with maybe epoxy and or
> fiberglass the end could be repaired ? Not sure what will adhere to the
> plastic ? Are the original ones made of PVC ?
>
> -john
Not ever having had a probelm with my pipes, I've never investigated the
need for plastic repairs, but before we do epoxy or some other repair,
does anyone know the chemical make up of the plastic?? Most
Polyethylenes don't repair well with epoxies you buy at a hardware
store; with or without fiber reinforcement. The "Plastic Weld" products
work well for bonding one plastic to another, but Polyethylene isn't one
of them. Triple cross linked polyethylene(the kind used in older
whitewater kayaks) pretty much doesn't bond/repair with anything,
although some folks have had success with some urethane-based 2 part
adhesives. Old Town Canoe Co. sells a repair kit for their TCP
"Discovery" line of canoes that involves polarizing the plastic with a
torch flame prior to the application of the cloth and resin. It's nasty
stuff to work with in tight areas and is viscous enough that proper
wetting out of the cloth is difficult. It also has a short working time
and if you buy some, make sure you get fresh product. It has a very
short shelf life. It's expensive too.
One product the paddling community(and hopefully the pipe repair folks
too) might want to investigate is a new repair epoxy from Gougeon
Brothers out of Bay City Michigan. Their West System epoxies are
legendary for lamiate and wood gluing and I've used them for canoe
repairs(nonTCP boats) for over 20 years. They have a new epoxy designed
for repairing polyehtylene that remains flexible and should withstand
the expansion issues brought up previously. My concern would be whether
it can withstand the temperatures of the coolant. I have not researched
this and wouldn't want to recommend it without further study. I have
some here at the house, but have not had the time or need to put it to
the test. The kit retails for about $35 and is available on ebay if you
have no dealer near you. The 105/205 resin/ hardener combination that i
have used for 2 decades DOES NOT tolerate temps near boiling water well
at all, but other epoxies might.
Bottom line is that replacement might be the best option, as others have
suggested.
YMMV
DM&FS
I agree that
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