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Date:   Mon, 18 Nov 2013 11:55:33 -0800
Reply-To:   Al Knoll <anasasi@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:   Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:   Al Knoll <anasasi@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:   Re: High beams not working-lighting upgrades!
Comments:   To: Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:   <52896BBD.5060309@gmail.com>
Content-Type:   text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

If we examine the lifetime derating curves for incandescents like the H4 QI's we use you'll notice the MTBF goes up (gets better) as the drive voltage is reduced. In absurdum, if you reduce the voltage to zero, the will likely last until you break 'em.

"The only device with an infinite service life is the one which is never installed" - Kettering regarding ignition parts

Fizzix, it's just Fizzix, it's always just Fizzix ... attributed to Feynmann.

Pensionerd.

On Sun, Nov 17, 2013 at 5:22 PM, Rocket J Squirrel < camping.elliott@gmail.com> wrote:

> "The ultimate would also be to upgrade the wiring all the way to the > lights." > > I have an analog voltmeter on the dash, with a switch so I can monitor > the voltage on the house battery and the engine battery. Well, to be > accurate, the "engine" position actually connects the meter to the dash, > not the battery. The voltage drop on the battery > dash wire is pretty > significant when the headlights are turned on. > > One measly 8-gauge wire feed the dash, headlights, radiator fan. Been > meaning to upsize that wire for a while now. But then . . . there's > nothing up front that really cares whether the voltage is a bit low, is > there? Headlights are bright enough for me. > > This on an '84. > > -- > Jack "Rocket j Squirrel" Elliott > 1984 Westfalia, auto trans, > Bend, Ore. > > > On 11/17/2013 08:25 AM, Dennis Haynes wrote: > >> Actually it is not that difficult to improve the wiring to more of the >> alternator output available for lighting. Start with the harness from the >> alternator to the battery cable at the starter. If you were wiring a house >> or building a 100 amp circuit would probably be #2 or larger. As a test >> turn >> on everything for .5 hour so and then check that wire to see how hot it >> is. >> The insulation will actually soften. Rev the engine and measure the >> voltage >> drop. You will be surprised. So upgrade this with a #4. Now up front for >> all >> the 87+ Vanagons with AC there are two wires going from the battery >> terminal >> to the fuse box area. One goes to the box and the other is the feed for >> the >> super high speed radiator fan. Since this fan speed is rarely used this >> can >> be a tap or better yet parallel the two together. Now you have a good feed >> source for your headlight relays or eve the stock headlight switch. The >> ultimate would also be to upgrade the wiring all the way to the lights. >> You could also just run another wire from the alternator to the front. I >> ran >> 2. One goes to the fuse box and the other to charge the auxiliary battery. >> >> Dennis >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf >> Of >> Frank Condelli >> Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2013 5:46 AM >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >> Subject: Re: High beams not working-lighting upgrades! >> >> The relays are not installed to make it possible to add high watt >> bulbs, that's just a side attraction. The main reason for adding the >> relays >> is that the headlamp circuit has too many resistance gouging devices in >> the >> path to the headlights. Just go measure the voltage at your headlights >> without the relays, you will find it's about 9.5v not 12 as it should be. >> AND, since some of these resistance gouging items are switches with small >> contact points surrounded by plastic which melts when the contact points >> are >> overheated the switch fails. Headlamp switch and ignition switch are the >> ones that normally fail. So..the real reason for installing the headlight >> relays is to save those two switches from melting and to get more voltage >> to >> the headlights. With my relay kit you will get 11.5v at the headlights. >> To >> get the full 12v you need to redo all the OEM wiring with larger gauge >> wire, >> not really worth the trouble unless you like doing that sort of thing for >> the extra 1/2v. >> >> >> On Nov 16, 2013, at 8:32 PM, Automatic digest processor >> <LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> wrote: >> >> With all above said, I think relays are a good idea though, especially >>> if you're constantly running high wattage units on a sustained basis. >>> I've just never had the need for it. >>> >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Frank Condelli >> Almonte, Ontario, Canada >> '87 VW Westy, '00 Kawasaki 250 Sherpa, "98 Ducati 750 Monster & Lionel >> Trains (Collection for sale) Frank Condelli & Associates - Vanagon/Vanagon >> Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley BusFusion a VW Camper camping >> event, >> Almonte, ON, June 05 ~ 08, 2014 >> >>


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