Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 06:54:17 -0800
Reply-To: Brett Ne <brettn777@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Brett Ne <brettn777@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: replacing window glass seals
In-Reply-To: <95F969B4-1601-4C27-A2D5-B8AC2AE47C86@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Here in Oregon we don't salt our roads, so there's Krown Rust shops around,
but I'm sure that if I go to a store that sells auto body supplies they'll
have something similar. I have some thin 150 lb braided polyester line for
heavy duty kite flying as well as some parachute cord; should be able to
get something to work.
2 questions:
The Bentley shows the use of an adhesive bead in conjunction with the
rubber seal, but I have not seen any mention of using an adhesive on any of
the DIY blogs. Is this something that is only done in the factory? I
would presume that using an adhesive would preclude the use of any kind of
oil, silicon, or soapy water to make the process easier.
Here are two pics of the bottom screw holes that held the outside screen to
the window frame:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4930890/IMG_2005.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4930890/IMG_2006.JPG
I'm determine to find a way to attach the screens directly to the window
frames and not have to use these screw holes. What's the best way of
treating these so that the rust doesn't spread any further? Most of the
brown stuff is just staing of the paint & should come right off with
judicious use of a scrubby pad. The two upper screw holes just have some
rust on the inside of the holes themselves, so I figure that I could just
drill them out a little bit bigger to get to fresh metal, and then add a
bit of primer & paint. I can do the same to the bottom holes, but the rust
has developed between the two layers of sheet metal and is starting to
expand them apart. I'm not sure how aggressive I need to be in dealing
with this. Also, should I fill in the holes with some kind of epoxy, or is
the primer/paint/rubber gasket plenty of protection?
On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 2:39 AM, Frank Condelli <RAlanen@aol.com> wrote:
> Small diameter, very strong, nylon cord is the best. Use Krown
> Rust proofing oil or similar on the seal and on the frame, goes in very
> easy and the Krown keeps the rubber soft and combats rust if any defects in
> the painted surface. The two centre windows are the hardest ones to remove
> as they are a tighter fit than the others due to the aluminum frame around
> the glass. The hole was made for plain glass and Westfalia force fitted
> the aluminum framed windows into the same hole without modification of the
> opening.
>
>
> On Nov 20, 2013, at 12:00 AM, Automatic digest processor <
> LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> wrote:
>
> > Check around, maybe on The Samba, or maybe someone else here will chime
> in.=
> > Someone did suggest using parachute cord, I was using just plain nylon
> rop=
> > e, which is what I'd always used on the others. I've tried using both
> soapy=
> > water and talcum powder, the powder being the messiest of the two. Hell,
> m=
> > aybe I put on an '84 or earlier door, which has a bigger window opening!
> Th=
> > at was the reason for replacing the glass/seal, I had a very dented
> sliding=
> > door that I replaced with one from a junkyard. Jeff Stewart
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Condelli
> Almonte, Ontario, Canada
> '87 VW Westy, '00 Kawasaki 250 Sherpa, "98 Ducati 750 Monster & Lionel
> Trains (Collection for sale)
> Frank Condelli & Associates - Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the
> Ottawa Valley
> BusFusion a VW Camper camping event, Almonte, ON,
> June 05 ~ 08, 2014
>
--
Brett in Portland, OR
"Albert" '82 VanaFox I4 Riviera
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