Vanagon EuroVan
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Date:         Sat, 16 Nov 2013 17:36:23 -0800
Reply-To:     Al Knoll <anasasi@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Al Knoll <anasasi@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: High beams not working-lighting upgrades!
Comments: To: Old Volks Home <oldvolkshome@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <CAJOFYZnJRJGzTPHEH3w_ZeZ+eXQUHve=fm2yEpc9th-6bhc5=g@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Yep. Putting hi wattage bulbs in the standard boutique vanagon lenses is like pouring coffee into a drunk. Previously you just had a drunk. Now you have a fully caffeinated, wide awake, but still drunk, adversary. Upgrade the optics first, Bosch, Hella, Carello Cibie Marchal. All make good lenses.

Pensionerd.

On Sat, Nov 16, 2013 at 5:29 PM, Old Volks Home <oldvolkshome@gmail.com>wrote:

> For decades I have run Euro H4 headlights in practically every VW (and a 72 > Toyota PU) I have owned using 60/55 bulbs and they have always been Hella > units with either Hella or Philips Bulbs. Except for my Westy with the > South African Grill Headlight setup, I've never had the need to run these > high wattage bulbs people talk about, ergo no relays either. With the > Westy, I do run the 100/80 watt H4s, as well as the standard 55 watt > Driving Lamps. But even out on the Interstate in the Mojave Desert at 1am > or in the number of cross country trips since 1999 have I ever had to run > the High Beams/Driving Lights for an extended period of time because of > traffic ahead of me (remember, I'm in a slow loaded down Westy with a small > trailer,) or constant on-coming traffic, so out of courtesy, I'm certainly > not going to blind them. I still have the ORIGINAL Light Switch and with > reports of people melting theirs I have periodically checked to see if it's > even warm. Having clean contacts at all points, switch, fuses, bulbs and > grounds are key to efficient lights and that should be always paramount (I > check and clean these every fall). Oh yeah, I carry a spare light switch > but have never had to use it yet in 13 years. > > I learned in the late 70s from a Brit friend of mine that wattage isn't the > total key to good headlights/driving lights. It's the quality of the > reflector of the light along with the glass fluting/beam pattern that makes > the bigger difference. Quality units like Bosch, Hella, Cibie, Marschal > (sp?) have the best reflectors. The Chinese/Taiwan/Far Eastern units have > poor reflectors and beam patterns rendering them as pure junk. At the > time, I was amazed at how well the brightness and beam patterns were > practically equal using 100, 80, 60 and even 55 watt H4 bulbs in a quality > made unit with an excellent reflector and properly fluted lens. Most of my > driving is on the pavement with a lot of city driving in traffic, so I make > sure my low beams are angled as such not to blind someone in their rear > view mirror. If I were to do more off-road camping/driving, I would > consider adding appropriate lighting separate from the regular lighting > circuits and would of course consider additional fusing and relays. > > With all above said, I think relays are a good idea though, especially if > you're constantly running high wattage units on a sustained basis. I've > just never had the need for it. > > Cheers :) > > Jim Thompson > 84 GL 1.9 "Gloria" > 84 Westfalia 2.1 "Ole Putt" > 72 411 Station Wagon "Pug" > 75 914 1.8 "Nancy" > Full Timing From March 1999 To January 2012 > oldvolkshome@gmail.com > http://www.oldvolkshome.com > Find me on Facebook: > http://www.facebook.com/people/Jim-Thompson/100000710343835 > *********************************** > > > On Sat, Nov 16, 2013 at 8:28 AM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com > >wrote: > > > I just drove Fun Bus from NY to Florida. I drove through the Carolinas > and > > Georgia at night. In all I think I was "able" to use the high beams 4 > > times. > > Even with y original lights, messed up lenses and all I had no problem. > > There was always something in front of me to follow or in my way (Ha Ha). > > Anyway, as weak as the original headlight switch may be adding relays > does > > also just add another point of failure. As for more powerful lamps there > > is > > just something wrong with using almost 1.2 your alternators capacity just > > for the head lamps. As lighting is a continuous load you have to look at > > the > > full power distribution of the vehicle for upgrades like this. The big > weak > > ling is the harness from the alternator. And this one can fail near the > > alternator connection and yes this can catch fire. Replace it with the > fuel > > lines. At least inspect the terminal where it connects to the alternator. > > > > Buy the way, if you simply re-feed the headlight switch from a circuit > not > > connected to the ignition switch you will get the same lighting increase > as > > the relays, (using original wattage bulbs). > > > > I get a bit of a kick out of folks that need super lighting and auxiliary > > stuff as they sit in traffic with the car if front of them no more than 4 > > feet away. I do find it annoying when these folks are behind me. > Especially > > in the motor home, lights like this shining into the mirrors can be a > real > > nuisance. Just because oncoming traffic is not flashing their lights out > > does not mean you are not annoying drivers in front of you. Those big > bulbs > > with bad housings and lenses can really be distracting. > > > > Dennis > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf > Of > > Frank Condelli > > Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2013 5:51 AM > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > Subject: Re: High beams not working > > > > Not really. It all depends on the relays and wires. You need > > properly rated relays and wires to keep the 400 watts from burning > > something. The only problem I have seen is that damn 9004 bulb socket > > cannot take the power, the contacts are too small and eventually the heat > > melts the plastic of the socket and will kill it. I've replace them with > > ones from NAPA and they seem to hold up better. On my van I do not have > > that problem as years ago I installed the Euro H4 headlamps with the H4 > > bulbs, their bulb holders have BIG fat contacts in the bulb sockets ! > The > > relay kits I sell > > < > > > http://www.frankcondelli.com/staging1/store/index.php?route=product/product > > &product_id=1090> are made to handle 400 watts. I know it works as my > > personal Westy has had this set for many, many years and we do a lot of > > milage, you all know that of course, with the 400 watts a glowing for > hours > > on end and never have we had any problems. > > > > On Nov 16, 2013, at 12:00 AM, Automatic digest processor > > <LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> wrote: > > > > > 400 watts is asking a lot of it for sustained use. > > > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > Frank Condelli > > Almonte, Ontario, Canada > > '87 VW Westy, '00 Kawasaki 250 Sherpa, "98 Ducati 750 Monster & Lionel > > Trains (Collection for sale) Frank Condelli & Associates - > Vanagon/Vanagon > > Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley BusFusion a VW Camper camping > event, > > Almonte, ON, June 05 ~ 08, 2014 > > >


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