Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 08:29:44 -0600
Reply-To: JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: compressing piston rings in engine
In-Reply-To: <BAY405-EAS19052C698C004F6FD4D73ADA0D30@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Dennis,
I know the bottom end of the WBX is heck for stout - so mostly no need
to tear into it - but if heads must come off for whatever reason -
assuming some mileage on the engine - that's a good time to just go
ahead for a ring job and water pump replacement? Don't fool with head
job only?
Thanks,
John
On 12/9/2013 4:46 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> Please don't use a slide hammer to pull the piston pins. You really need the
> reamer to break the carbon ridge in the pin bore. On the waterboxers the
> pins can slide right out.
>
> If the oil control rings are the three piece type you really need to pull
> the pistons and insert from the top of the cylinders. Too risky to get those
> in. If the older cast type oil controls rings are used you should be able to
> work the rings in while sliding the cylinder over the top. A thin steel band
> can be fabed and pinched together with needle nose vise grips to get the
> rings started and ten pulled out before pushing the cylinder all the way
> down. I just now plan to pull the pistons whenever the heads come off. Only
> adds a few hours to the job and gives a reason to replace the water pump.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Jim Felder
> Sent: Monday, December 9, 2013 2:46 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: compressing piston rings in engine
>
> Derek,
>
> I have used a home-made rig like that, but with an inertia puller.
>
> Jim
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 1:37 PM, Derek Burgess <ddb.graphic@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Tom,
>> Im not suggesting you remove the rods. I know some people say to, but
>> to me, then you have a bearing job better left to when you split the case!
>>
>> Rods still attached.
>> Remove the circlip's that hold the wrist pins.
>> Then remove the wrist pins using a tool like this
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/nzp43gekwjteg5y/photo.JPG
>>
>> Ignore the fact that the piston/rod are out of the case in this photo,
>> it can be done with them in the case.
>>
>> I've seen it called a piston pin puller, the Bentley actually shows a
>> special VW tool to use, but I have never seen one in the wild- I made
>> the one in my photo from Home Depot parts- It works, I have used it twice
> now.
>>
>>
>> -Derek
>> 1990 GL Automatic "Vikki"
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 2:12 PM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Derek, that option has been glaring at me and it is looking
>>> ever more appealing. This route looks pretty straightforward too:
>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSBQTkPh_SQ (until you drop the nut)
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 10:48 AM, Derek Burgess
>>> <ddb.graphic@gmail.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I know this isn't a direct answer to your question: but it's really
>>>> alot easier to pull the pistons, get them into the cylinders on a
>>>> bench and then install the two together. I think pulling circlip's
>>>> and piston pins
>> much
>>>> easier than trying to push a cylinder down over a piston still
>>>> attached
>> to
>>>> the rod. Use rags to clog the cylinder bores, do not want circlips
>> flying
>>>> down into the block.. "would not be funny" -Ben
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -Derek
>>>> 1990 GL Automatic "Vikki"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 1:33 PM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Dear List,
>>>>>
>>>>> I am trying to get the rings compressed (with pistons attached to
>>>>> rods
>>>> and
>>>>> engine in the car). I am currently in practice mode - using the
>>>>> old
>>>> rings
>>>>> but I am finding, as warned, this is bloody tricky. Not to
>>>>> mention it
>>>> is
>>>>> getting awfully cold outside - my hands nearly froze to the
>>>>> cylinders yesterday (I am now storing them inside).
>>>>>
>>>>> Some observations:
>>>>>
>>>>> 1) I have a standard blue steel compressor:
>>>>> http://goo.gl/Eapbve(which has now been cut down as slim (width)
>>>>> as possible, thereby removing a
>>>> strip
>>>>> of steel that I could also use with a hose clamp) and it very
>>>>> nearly
>>>> fits
>>>>> (or maybe not) in the tight space between the water jacket and
>>>>> the
>>>> sleeve.
>>>>> If you've used one in this scenario, where did you locate the
>>>> compressor
>>>>> ratchet mechanism when doing the last cylinder: top, bottom, side?
>> The
>>>>> bottom seems to nearly work.
>>>>>
>>>>> 2) Even if I were to get the standard compressor to fit, how on
>>>>> earth
>>>> will
>>>>> I remove it? I would need to unwind it all the way and slide it
>>>>> out I guess? Or unwind it so it fits around the cylinder? I can
>>>>> see being
>>>> able
>>>>> to do that on the first cylinder, but that seems practically
>> impossible
>>>> on
>>>>> the second one when there is no room. If you've used the
>>>>> compressor
>> (hi
>>>>> Alistair!), which route did you go?
>>>>>
>>>>> 3) It seems that the VW specific ring tool ( http://goo.gl/RdkUEp
>>>>> )
>>>> would
>>>>> be much easier to remove (but looks like fun job to get it to
>> compress).
>>>>> Alas, while it ranges from $5-10, it seems to be out of stock in
>> Canada
>>>>> and about $30-40 to ship. Bah. I'm considering making one from
>>>>> the
>>>> steel
>>>>> I cut from the compressor.
>>>>>
>>>>> 4) I really liked the zip tie then cut idea from Angus Gordon. I
>> have a
>>>>> hose clamp, but tightening it would seem quite difficult. I
>>>>> presume
>>>> that
>>>>> the way you would tighten a hose clamp is by going in the same
>>>>> access
>>>> hole
>>>>> (water pump/pipes holes) when you are doing the last cylinder?
>>>>>
>>>>> 5) It seems the sensible order to attach cylinders would be
>>>>> first the
>>>> two
>>>>> on the rear/flywheel side and then follow by front/pulley side.
>>>>>
>>>>> I am considering dropping the engine, if only so I can (a) get
>>>>> better access, (b) haul the engine inside to be warmer or god
>>>>> forbid (c)
>> admit
>>>>> defeat and take it to a shop who will roll eyes, cluck, and then
>> likely
>>>>> punish me for my arrogance. I guess most VW mechanics are used
>>>>> to
>> some
>>>> of
>>>>> that.
>>>>>
>>>>> As always, thanks in advance for any illumination.
>>>>>
>>>>> Tom
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
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