Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 13:12:14 -0800
Reply-To: Scott Daniel <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Organization: Cosmic Reminders
Subject: Re: compressing piston rings in engine
In-Reply-To: <CAFNeVpHo4ao8hfbg3TCtufLmvS2MABvwFomwKWhzT_e0u-RuTw@mail.gmail.com>
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I'll read your whole post when I can Tom...
but I'll tell you this...
this is the only way I put rings on a waterboxer piston ..
I do it the way VW intended you to.
I remove piston from rod via wrist pin clips. It's tricky.
Then I install piston with new rings down into the barrel from the top
in the conventional way with a 'normal' piston right compressor ..a big
band-like thing ..like you were working on a Chevy. ( piston and barrel
off the car and engine..on the work bench )
then I push the piston down far enough that the wrist pin holes are
exposed but the rings are still in the barrel.
there's very little gap or play there....like 1/4 in max , so be careful.
then aseemble the piston with new rings and barrel assembly onto the rod
and wrist pin. If a circlip slips and falls downinto the case..you're
screwed. Keep lots of rags there to prevent that ..even a good magnet
to catch the circlip if you drop it.
It's tricky.
I have to heat the piston sometimes a little to get the wrist pin to
slide in/out.
if you yank around on the rod too much there's a slight change that it's
a little rough on the rod bearings.
sure ..try your 'cheater' method ...
the above is the proper way and what VW intended.
Scott
On 12/9/2013 10:33 AM, Tom Carchrae wrote:
> Dear List,
>
> I am trying to get the rings compressed (with pistons attached to rods and
> engine in the car). I am currently in practice mode - using the old rings
> but I am finding, as warned, this is bloody tricky. Not to mention it is
> getting awfully cold outside - my hands nearly froze to the cylinders
> yesterday (I am now storing them inside).
>
> Some observations:
>
> 1) I have a standard blue steel compressor: http://goo.gl/Eapbve (which
> has now been cut down as slim (width) as possible, thereby removing a strip
> of steel that I could also use with a hose clamp) and it very nearly fits
> (or maybe not) in the tight space between the water jacket and the sleeve.
> If you've used one in this scenario, where did you locate the compressor
> ratchet mechanism when doing the last cylinder: top, bottom, side? The
> bottom seems to nearly work.
>
> 2) Even if I were to get the standard compressor to fit, how on earth will
> I remove it? I would need to unwind it all the way and slide it out I
> guess? Or unwind it so it fits around the cylinder? I can see being able
> to do that on the first cylinder, but that seems practically impossible on
> the second one when there is no room. If you've used the compressor (hi
> Alistair!), which route did you go?
>
> 3) It seems that the VW specific ring tool ( http://goo.gl/RdkUEp ) would
> be much easier to remove (but looks like fun job to get it to compress).
> Alas, while it ranges from $5-10, it seems to be out of stock in Canada
> and about $30-40 to ship. Bah. I'm considering making one from the steel
> I cut from the compressor.
>
> 4) I really liked the zip tie then cut idea from Angus Gordon. I have a
> hose clamp, but tightening it would seem quite difficult. I presume that
> the way you would tighten a hose clamp is by going in the same access hole
> (water pump/pipes holes) when you are doing the last cylinder?
>
> 5) It seems the sensible order to attach cylinders would be first the two
> on the rear/flywheel side and then follow by front/pulley side.
>
> I am considering dropping the engine, if only so I can (a) get better
> access, (b) haul the engine inside to be warmer or god forbid (c) admit
> defeat and take it to a shop who will roll eyes, cluck, and then likely
> punish me for my arrogance. I guess most VW mechanics are used to some of
> that.
>
> As always, thanks in advance for any illumination.
>
> Tom
>
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