Date:         Sun, 15 Dec 2013 13:33:01 -0500
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Distributor Swap and Timing Issues - 88 GL with 2.1WBX
Comments: To: JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <52AD39AD.6040007@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

The real test here is the position of the distributor drive gear. If the
distributors appear to be in the same location, go for the swap bracket and
all. As a test you can simply plug the distributor into the harness, turn on
the ignition and give the test dizzy a spin. If the fuel pump runs and you
get spark you found the problem. As these vans are getting older failures
are now happening in the wiring. 4 times this year I had no starts due to
the wire from the coil to the ECU being open even though the insulation and
the crimp connector was intact. The fuse box is also a potential problem.

Dennis,

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
JRodgers
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2013 12:10 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Distributor Swap and Timing Issues - 88 GL with 2.1WBX

Kinda groping in the blind here and have a couple of questions. Hope someone
can explain.

I need to swap a dead distributor for a live one - and I want to be sure the
timing is right when I do it. As I understand, the engine should be turned
by hand to the point where the 2nd timing mark is at top - ie the split in
the case - which would be top dead center. This should bring the rotor
finger center line in line with a mark on the distributor housing.

For the engine from which I am pulling a known good distributor - I follow
the same procedure. 2nd pulley mark at the split - distributor finger should
be at the distributor housing mark. That being the case - the swap should be
straight across - and any timing variances should be minor, requiring only a
little tweaking  - maybe.

Have I got this right? Or am I missing something?  The real issue is a dead
hall sensor and given what I have on hand - this is the quickest way to
getting my rig back up and running. I'll deal with a new Hall sensor later.

As always, all input is appreciated.

Thanks,

John