Date:         Mon, 16 Dec 2013 18:26:08 -0800
Reply-To:     Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Rocket J Squirrel <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Remote Start Hookup - '88GL w/Manual Tranny
Comments: To: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <52ae2730.0e94e00a.68a1.ffffbd0d@mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

"Using one on the WBX has proved to be a singularly unexciting operation."

I like unexciting when it comes to transportation.

--
Jack "Rocket j Squirrel" Elliott
1984 Westfalia, auto trans,
Bend, Ore.

On 12/15/2013 02:02 PM, David Beierl wrote:
> At 01:51 PM 12/15/2013, Dennis Haynes wrote:
>> The current is only part of the question. The solenoid is an inductive
>> load
>> and when the power is disconnected there is a huge voltage spike. That
>> spike
>> can jump over a cheap switch and over time weld the contact(s). You
>> want a
>> good snap action switch preferably with a double break contact. There are
>> many designed for starter solenoid service.
>
> Good point.  I'm still advocating a plain clip lead (with crocodile
> clips and boots), though, in this particular application.  Using one
> on the WBX has proved to be a singularly unexciting operation.
>
> Larry Alofs wrote:
>> How about putting some sort of capacitor across it to absorb that spike,
>> like the condenser in an old fashioned distributor.  With a bad
>> condenser,
>
> Of course that would work.  A regular points condenser would be
> great, if perhaps a bit of overkill.
>
> But you can buy mechanics' remote start switches in any FLAPS, so if
> you don't want to go the plain clip lead route you really don't have
> to reinvent the wheel.
>
> Yrs,
> d