Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 17:54:37 -0600
Reply-To: JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 88 GL - Rear Brakes
In-Reply-To: <BAY402-EAS79EB00AE40C22418B7C9EFA0C90@phx.gbl>
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Thanks! Huge Help!!
John
On 12/31/2013 4:46 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> Thanks
>
> Dennis,
>>From my phone.
> ________________________________
> From: Joe Fernandez<mailto:jfride@gmail.com>
> Sent: 12/31/2013 5:30 PM
> To: Dennis Haynes<mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com<mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
> Subject: Re: 88 GL - Rear Brakes
>
>>From Dennis on 3/19/2012:
>
> VW did not always use self-adjusting drum brakes. On the non-self-adjusting
> versions the lower shoe rests were the adjusters. There was a star wheel,
> (nut) (113609205) and the slotted post (pin) (211609279) and two holes in
> the backing plate that allowed you to reach in with a screwdriver to make
> adjustments. This was regular maintenance. So as the shoes wore the bottoms
> were adjusted out to compensate so with regular care the entire shoe was
> worn and the entire friction surface was used. Most American cars with
> self-adjusting brakes use various methods to work the same way. VW decided
> to go the way of placing the adjusting mechanism as the same end as the
> cylinders. It should be noted that most air brake drum set ups on trucks
> work the same way, (slack adjusters).
>
> Now this works well if everything is the proper dimensions, especially the
> match between drum diameter and shoe thickness. A problem is that I have yet
> to find replacement brake shoes that have the proper pad thickness or a
> satisfactory material. For years I went to the dealer and got the OEM shoe
> sets but they are no longer available. The original shoe linings were
> riveted, metallic, high friction linings with a thickness of 6mm. The
> aftermarket shoes are only 4mm and the linings are soft. It is also common
> for some shoes to have the linings reversed (leading-trailing) or on the
> shoe in the wrong place. Shimming the bottom compensates for the thinner
> linings. This can also compensate for worn drums. The nuts and pins I
> mentioned above will fit perfectly on the Vanagon if you want to add
> adjustability. Since there are no detent springs to keep them from turning I
> do not know if that could be a problem so I use shims. 2-3mm on each shoes
> is a very good starting point.
>
> As these are self-adjusting brakes, I do not do any fine adjustment before
> placing the drums. I want to know the self-adjusters work. I want to hear
> them click!
>
> I have posted in the past instructions for installing and setting up the
> rear brakes. There are a few details that are critical.
>
> The top springs have to be in the correct position, center hooks face up.
> Otherwise they will hit the adjuster nut.
>
> The pushrod thread has to be able to turn freely. No grease or anti-seize. A
> dry lube like lock-ease.
>
> The handbrake cable needs to be properly adjusted. This cannot be done with
> the drum in place. You need to see the lever.
>
> After placing the shoes leave off the adjuster lever spring. The push rod
> should be installed with the front chamfer facing the backing plate and on
> the rear fork, the longer tang goes against the shoe. The shorter tang goes
> in front of the lever. Adjust the push rod to take up the slack but do not
> actually push out the shoes. Now notice how the hand brake can swing. Pull
> forward and connect the brake cable. There should be about 1/16" between the
> lever and the pushrod. Adjust the cable to give this on both sides. If the
> cables appear to be binding or the outer jackets are collapsed or distorted
> the cables need to be replaced.
>
> After this is sorted install the drums and make sure they are fully seated.
> If needed bleed the brakes. Pumping the pedal will work the adjusters and if
> there is any slack you should hear them click as they turn one notch with
> each pedal push. Oh , and you want cylinders that have the inner springs to
> prevent the pistons from retracting. This was recently a big discussion
> here. ATE!
>
> I hope this helps.
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 31, 2013 at 2:20 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Should be in the archives. If you can't find I'll supply in a day or so
>> when I get to a PC. To much typing for the phone.
>>
>> Dennis,
>> From my phone.
>> ________________________________
>> From: JRodgers<mailto:jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
>> Sent: 12/31/2013 5:09 PM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM<mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>> Subject: 88 GL - Rear Brakes
>>
>> I've got to tear into the rear brake on Ol' Red. I hesitate to ask - but:
>>
>> Anyone have a copy of or a link to Dennis Haynes instructions on how to
>> set up rear brakes properly?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John
>>
>
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