Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 10:43:13 -0600
Reply-To: ralph meyermann <ralphmeyermann@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: ralph meyermann <ralphmeyermann@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Overheating
In-Reply-To: <BAY407-EAS126DD4E8C1F6F6A3E2CAEAEA0C80@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I have a nearly complete 1.6 na diesel under my bench in the garage. If you
find major issues and cant find parts while waning to keep it a 1.6 na. A
1.9 na should be simple swap if needed. The 1.9 td is a bit more work, but
nice power gain and not as BAAAAHH in the engine bay.
Velma 82 1.9L AAZ td westy
On Jan 1, 2014 10:31 AM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
> The Vanagon is not the only vehicle that has engine issues. Just check out
> the Yellow Pages in any major town or city.
>
> Dennis,
> From my phone.
> ________________________________
> From: loudmouth_70@YAHOO.COM<mailto:loudmouth_70@YAHOO.COM>
> Sent: 1/1/2014 9:49 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM<mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Subject: Re: Overheating
>
> I appreciate the help with diagnosis. Can't wait to check for the air
> bubbles in the coolant, or the coolant/oil mix. This vanagon lifestyle is
> not for the faint of heart.
>
> Steve
>
> From my HTC Sensation 4G on T-Mobile. The first nationwide 4G network
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "ralph meyermann" <ralphmeyermann@GMAIL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Subject: Overheating
> Date: Wed, Jan 1, 2014 3:07 am
>
>
> Check for oil in coolant and coolant in your oil, coolant in your oil could
> trash the bottom end. What started as a possible head or head gasket issue
> could turn worse. On another make I have seen the water pump impeller
> corrosion to a point that the blades were falling off. A thermostat is a
> quick and easy swap as long as the bolts come out.
>
> Velma 82 1.9L AAZ td westy
> On Dec 31, 2013 9:39 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Erosion. Look up cylinder cavitation erosion. I also know of some Hondas
> > that have suffered from bad casting porosity causing oil leaks.
> >
> > Dennis,
> > From my phone.
> > ________________________________
> > From: Al Knoll<mailto:anasasi@GMAIL.COM>
> > Sent: 12/31/2013 9:19 PM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM<mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > Subject: Re: Overheating
> >
> > Porosity as in corrosion? Or porosity as in casting flaws?
> >
> > Inquiring minds want some snow.
> >
> > Pensioner.
> >
> > On Tue, Dec 31, 2013 at 2:54 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com
> > >wrote:
> >
> > > These blocks are also getting porosity (aka Ford Power Stroke failure)
> > and
> > > cracks in the cylinder walls.
> > >
> > > Dennis,
> > > From my phone.
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Jim Felder<mailto:jim.felder@gmail.com>
> > > Sent: 12/31/2013 5:48 PM
> > > To: Dennis Haynes<mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com>; Vanagon mailing
> > > list<mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
> > > Subject: Re: Overheating
> > >
> > > Yes, in my haste to answer I left out the obvious. Warped or cracked
> head
> > > equals a blown gasket as far as the car is concerned. My last round
> with
> > > such a problem was only solved, after trying several heads, by sending
> > the
> > > block out to be resurfaced. The block tends to pull up "hills" around
> the
> > > head bolt holes which leaves "valleys" between the studs, in the very
> > > places that do the water sealing between the head and block.
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > >
> > > On Tue, Dec 31, 2013 at 4:18 PM, Dennis Haynes <
> d23haynes57@hotmail.com
> > > >wrote:
> > >
> > > > Could also be a cracked head or block.
> > > >
> > > > Dennis,
> > > > From my phone.
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: Steve<mailto:loudmouth_70@YAHOO.COM>
> > > > Sent: 12/31/2013 3:57 PM
> > > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM<mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > > > Subject: Overheating
> > > >
> > > > Vanagon Listers:
> > > >
> > > > I've got an 82 diesel, she's overheating. On 5 hour road trip, after
> > > hour
> > > > 4 started blowing cold air then back to hot, then cold again. Soon
> the
> > > > needle raised up and light flashed. Had extra coolant with me, while
> > > > topping off expansion saw that the cloth wrapped hose to fill tank
> had
> > > come
> > > > off. Replaced and gingerly made it to destination. Stopped three
> > times
> > > to
> > > > let cool. I figured I'd gotten air into the system and needed to
> bleed
> > > it
> > > > out. I've done that today--with little success. Got it up to temp,
> > > parked
> > > > on a ridiculous incline to get the air up to the radiator. Not much
> > > > hissing. After 8 attempts only once did coolant bleed out. Air
> > > continued
> > > > to blow mostly cold with heat cranked, occasionally while driving
> > around
> > > it
> > > > warmed a little. Needle would raise at low RPM's then return closer
> to
> > > the
> > > > middle when I revved it up. Even at slower speeds with engine revved
> > it
> > > > would cool--that confuses me a bit as little air is moving over
> > > > the radiator--makes me think it'd be hotter.
> > > >
> > > > I'm wondering about two things: first what's likely to be the cause
> of
> > > > this behavior? Secondly, any tricks for getting me home before
> > starting
> > > > these projects?
> > > >
> > > > I'll be leaving Friday, I'm at Lake Chelan in WA, little town of
> Manson
> > > to
> > > > be exact. My gut tells me Radiator for sure, pretty sure it's the
> > > > original. Not sure about thermostat or heater core.
> > > >
> > > > Happy New Year, appreciate the advice. Nothing like bringing in the
> > new
> > > > year with a little repair work.
> > > >
> > > > steve
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
|