Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 01:02:04 -0600
Reply-To: JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 88 GL - Oil Cooler R&R
In-Reply-To: <BAY179-DS14462FD351AA80B94977DEA0B00@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
Dennis,
The nut was tight - but the 27 mm socket did the trick. Had to mess with
it quite a bit - the shoulders on the nut are rounded t the factory -
but it came off. Using the 3/8 inch internal pipe wrench worked like a
champ to remove the pipe. Once removed -- it was easy access to the old
seal and the installation of the new one.
Just so everyone knows - the back side of the oil cooler has a groove to
hold the new o-ring seal - AND it has pins so that the little loops on
the new seal can be snapped on to them to hold the seal in place while
the cooler is reinstalled. I noted that the side of the case where the
cooler mounts is perfectly flat - no ring groove. The cooler, when the
retaining nut is tightened on the pipe - squeezes down and seals on that
flat surface so it's important it be clean with no grit or debris.
The seal that failed in mine was hard as rocks. Extremely brittle with
age and use - prol'ly the original from the factory. The break in the
seal was clearly seen. There had been an oil weep for a while - the seal
may have been it about to let go completely - when I started one of
these cold mornings at about 15 degrees. I figure that cold oil - being
20-50 wt about did that old seal in.
All is well now.
On to the next project!!
John
On 1/9/2014 12:36 AM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> Was kind of having some fun. However, if the nut was not tight, that could be part of the failure cause. Oil over heating can also be art of the problem. Like many failures this s a symptom of something else going on.
>
>
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Carl Hansen [mailto:carl_hansen@IEEE.ORG]
> Sent: Sunday, January 5, 2014 11:33 AM
> To: Dennis Haynes; JRodgers
> Cc: Vanagon Mailing List
> Subject: Re: 88 GL - Oil Cooler R&R
>
>
>
> OK, guess I should have been more specific.
>
>
>
> Channel Lock (kinda like taking a drink from my Thermos Bottle) if you are careful. Those that I have had to take off have not been that tight. If you really want to get anal - it is part number 068-115-723, oil cooler nut, 27 mm. For those of you w/o Metric wrenches (sorry, sockets) that's just a hair [.00040") bigger that a 1 1/16 inch. Might be a bit tight, and I have used 1 1/8 socket (as well as that Channel Lock mentioned earlier).
>
>
>
> Mind you, if using that Channel Lock, you're going to want to be careful. As Dennis noted, the nut is really thin (with beveled corner flats). But then, as noted, it's usually not that tight.
>
>
>
> YMMV
>
>
>
> Ch
>
>
>
> FIRST Mentor and
>
> Systems Engineer <<-- Searching.....
>
>
>
> Systems Integration & Analysis - Requirements Analysis - Documentation - Leadership
>
>
>
> www.linkedin.com/in/carlghansen
>
> *******************************************************************************
>
>
>
> On Jan 5, 2014, at 9:23 AM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Channel Lock is a brand name for a lot of different types of tools. Many still made in USA. That nut is thin and can be messed up with those groove lock pliers. They do come in handy though.
>
> Dennis,
>>From my phone.
>
> _____
>
> From: Carl Hansen <mailto:carl_hansen@IEEE.ORG>
> Sent: 1/4/2014 9:36 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: 88 GL - Oil Cooler R&R
>
> Channel Lock?
>
> Ch
>
> FIRST Mentor and
> Systems Engineer <<-- Searching....
>
> Systems Integration & Analysis - Requirements Analysis - Documentation
> - Leadership
> www.linkedin.com/in/carlghansen
> *******************************************************************************
>
> Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 16:15:52 -0600
> From: JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
> Subject: 88 GL - Oil Cooler R&R
>
> I am almost ready to remove the cooler after my big oil leak. Have new
> O-ring, new filter and oil ready to go, and an exquisite 3/8 internal
> pipe wrench.
>
> Question:: Does the big nut threaded on the pipe though the oil cooler
> have to come off before the pipe itself can be backed out? Or is the nut
> there just to set the position of the cooler on the pipe?
>
>
>
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