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Date:         Wed, 15 Jan 2014 20:21:08 -0500
Reply-To:     Steve Cotsford <cotsford@AOL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Steve Cotsford <cotsford@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Re: More 89 Bluestar questions
Comments: To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <BAY179-DS1315B78A5DC147F57A86EDA0B90@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Thank you Dennis. The seam I am referring to is not the longitudinal or horizontal one. This one is in fact sitting in the cutouts in the mounting brackets as you say. On the end of the muffler, where the tail pipe mounts, is a circular seam or connection and its where the end plate attaches to the cylindrical body of the muffler. This seam travels all around the muffler end and the outside diameter of it is slightly bigger than the body diameter of the muffler. This may be an aftermarket muffler. I bought it second hand, with the brackets, cat converter etc from a VW shop in Raleigh NC and it was fairly pricey. Anyhow the slightly bigger diameter of this circular seam is what is interfering with the heat shield. I'm sorry if my description was misleading. I believe that if I remove the muffler and its mounting brackets, that I can move things around slightly, possibly open up some holes slightly so that the seam O.D. will clear the heat shield flange and the slight touching will cease.

I also found this article on the web

http://www.members.tripod.com/~fuelie/whatis.htm#What%20cars%20have%20Digifant

and although it was not written with a Vanagon specifically in mind, I think that there is some useful info which I can follow to get my cold performance and idle to work better. Certainly I will follow what seems good advice. We had 2" of snow here today so it will be a couple of days before I do anything else as I have to work outdoors. Cheers, Steve

On Jan 15, 2014, at 7:54 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> The heat shield, muffler brackets, and the rear support are different for > the Syncro. Not only are the mounting holes in a different location but so > are the curves for the pulley area and the slots for the muffler brackets. > Try to find the correct shield. Hopefully you do have the correct rear > support! Otherwise the rear of the engine will sit too low putting the oil > sump and the transmission at the wrong angle. > The muffler seam should sit in the cut outs on the brackets. The seam should > not be close to anything. I have seen some where the seam is in the wrong > place. GoWesty has some real nice brackets both for stock mufflers or the > stainless ones they sell. If the muffler is hurting maybe just get their > muffler and clamp combo. Their tailpipes are awesome. > > Don't assume you have a mixture problem since it doesn't idle cold. If it > can start and run cold then the idle stabilizer should be able to keep it > running. The mixture screw on the air flow meter is just a trim screw and no > one has never fixed anything by tampering with it. The only adjustments you > should have to make is base ignition timing and idle speed. Anything more is > diagnoses and repair. > > Dennis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of > Steve Cotsford > Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 5:06 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: More 89 Bluestar questions > > After a break for Christmas and some very cold weather, I have worked some > more on my Bluestar with a 2.1 non original engine. I was having problems > with a flashing oil light and the low oil pressure switch started leaking > quite fast so I contacted BD and bought two new pressure switches. The low > pressure was easy to replace but the high pressure switch below the > distributor was a bit of a pain but with persistence,I was able to do it. > Having the wrong heat shield probably made things worse. I have no more > flashing red lights on the dash :-) > > Moving on, I have some significant noises due to the muffler touching the > heat shield. This heat shield apparently came off a syncro ( my van is > 2wd) as I had to rework bolt holes near the main pulley and at present, I > have tabs about 2" long below the main mounting cross member. The banging > noise is coming from a muffler seam where the tail pipe end is attached and > it rattles in contact with the bolt flange of the heat shield. I plan to > take off the muffler and the heat shield both and do some repositioning, > perhaps modify some holes a bit so that there is adequate clearance between > the muffler end seam and the heat shield mounting flange. I also want to > do a cleaner job of fitting the syncro heat shield to this non syncro set up > and shorten the downward poking tabs etc. If there are other things to > consider, I would happy to hear about them. > > I have now driven the van a very small amount, just 2 or 3 hundred yards up > the road and back. The clutch feels good and the engine seems to pull > fine, and the change to second gear was smooth. I have a problem with the > idle however. When starting from cold, its clear that the idle mixture > is not right as I have to keep the revs up a bit for a short time or it will > die. Afterwards its a just a teeny bit uneven but otherwise idles smoothly > and at 900 rpm on the tach. Being basically ignorant of the digifant > system could someone point me to a good write up in Bentleys or elsewhere on > how to adjust the variables. There is a big allen head set screw where the > air box fits the intake bellows which I am guessing is a mixture screw but I > feel sure other things should be checked first. The black plastic lid on > the air box potentiometer has clearly been off for reasons I do not know but > it must be in reasonable shape I think. I dont have any idea about this > engine but I can say it seems to run quite smoothly, albeit with some small > exhaust leaks on the passenger side. The idle is also a little uneven but > when I rev it it seems to rev cleanly and smoothly which gives me a little > satisfaction. Acceleration seems clean on the short runs I have done so > far. I have had the engine running for the better part of an hour on 3 > occasions and the temp gauge sits over the central LED. Thanks for any > wise comments. Steve >


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