So, if it does not leak overnight with a pressure test, it is not leaking? Then where is my refrigerant going? BTW, several have suggested alternative refrigerants, and I appreciate their doing so. However, the two suggested, Duracool (no longer available according to the Duracool web site) and Freeze 12, are both hydrocarbon refrigerants. Though I try to be open minded concerning alternative approaches, I believe I will avoid using a hydrocarbon gas as refrigerant in an AC system that is already suspected of leaking, and that could then emit a flammable vapor into the engine compartment. I know, gasoline is pretty flammable and is there also. But I don't see adding another risk. BTW, the reason Duracool gives for discontinuing sales is that the refrigerant is illegal for most of the applications, including mobile, for which it had been used. Duracool is hoping for changes in law or regulations, but to my mind, we have regulations for a reason. mcneely ---- Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote: > All the AC hoses and fittings are standard. Those fittings on the compressor are hard to find but some length changes can do away with them or if in good shape go re-use them. The only real difficult fitting is the switch manifold on the high pressure hose to the expansion valve. A tee and a "trinary" switch can replace that mess. > > Most leaky systems are due to the hoses except when the fittings fail. Common leakers include the compressor, the expansion valve, and the evaporator and condensers. Look for the oily trails and wet spots. If the clutch pulley on the compressor is dark or otherwise wet especially near the center that is the first leak. The condensers like to leak neat the hose fitting block. The evaporators leak at the tube bends. > > As for leak testing vacuum loss will only find the big ones. There is only 14.1psi difference between the vacuum and atmosphere. A good AC shop will charge the system to 150-200 psi with nitrogen and see if it holds at least overnight. Shop air will also work but you are introducing a lot of moisture. > > Dennis > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Stuart MacMillan > Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 7:57 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Air Conditioning help > > Well, it's leaking from somewhere! Those hoses shrink, stiffen, and develop micro pores as they age, and they are very long. The higher the temps they are exposed to and the more ozone you have in your air the faster the breakdown. Replace them as a first step, and recharge with the refrigerant of your choice. You will likely be fine just doing this. > > They will have to be custom made of course, using your fittings. Good luck! > > Stuart > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Dave Mcneely > Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 1:25 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Air Conditioning help > > My 1991 Volkswagen Vanagon GL Campmobile with factory air conditioning and a 2.1 liter engine (159k miles) loses refrigerant over the course of a summer. It had it converted to R134a two springs ago. It got all new fittings, the system was flushed, and new proper lubricant for R134 was added. It cooled wonderfully well, but by summer's end it was not doing so, despite two shops claiming not to be able to determine that it was leaking. They reported that with a "leak down test" over 24 hours, it held proper pressure. > > So, next spring it needed recharging again, and again, "leak down test reveals no leak." By summer's end, it was not cooling. Recharging resulted in the thing cooling marvelously, air temperature from the plenum being around 48 F. So, what do I do now? I plan to use the camper this spring, summer, fall and will need air conditioning for some trips through the plains and Southwest. > > Help! > > David McNeely -- David McNeely |
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