Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2014 11:47:04 -0600
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 82 Diesel Timing Belt
In-Reply-To: <1390929957.88944.YahooMailNeo@web142605.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
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Steve,
To replace the timing belt, you first need some stuff:
Timing Belt
Tensioner
and you need some tools:
cam locking plate (metal bar that goes into the slot at the back of the cam)
Injector pump locking pin
Tensioner adjustment tool
The Haynes manual, at least, gives you drill size you can substitute for
the cam locking pin and I think the thickness of the cam locking bar. There
isn't much subsitute for the tensioner adjuster, although the first time I
did it I used some smallish bent nosed needlenose pliers. On an 82 you will
need a 15 mm wrench for the tensioner nut.
And you need to know what to do.
First, get the engine to TDC. You will know it is at TDC by the flyweel
mark when the groove on the inside of the injector pump pulley is adjacent
to and aligned with the nearby groove in the mounting bracket. Further
proof you are at TDC is that the two cam lobes nearest you are pointing up,
and further still that the cam locking plate drops neatly into the slot.
If it doesn't drop neatly into the slot, you are either not exactly at
flywheel TDC or else your cam needs retiming. But that's another (related)
story.
Drop the muffler. Thank me later.
With all this done, remove the water pump pulley on an 82 or the whole
crank pulley (just four allen bolts) on later models. It's probably easier
to remove the pulley anyway. You may or may not have a stone guard on your
82 setup that needs to come off, but it will be obvious way down low on
your engine.
Loosen the tensioner. Slip the belt off little by little at its four main
points of contact:
Injector pulley
Cam pulley
intermediate shaft pulley
Crank pulley
Now slip the new belt back on, routing it from the bottom up.
A mosquito's breath can get your TDC out of whack while pulling all the
tension you can out of the belt as you work your way up. Check it again
before proceeding.
Get some belt teeth over the cam pulley, then turn your attention to to the
pump. Notice that the locking pin is cocked a little to your left from the
pressure of the pump internals. With your thumb, preload this pin back to
get rid of the angle before slipping the belt on. You want it sticking out
or you'll be a tooth off, and you only have two teeth before interference
sets in. Check TDC again. If OK, tighten the tensioner slightly against the
belt. Remove the locking plate and the pin, and use a socket wrench to give
the crank four revolutions to check for interference with the valves. Hit
the top of the belt between the pulleys with a mallet. While turning the
adjuster wrench (its two pins fit the holes in the face of the adjuster)
turn it up and to the right, counterclockwise, while twisting the belt at
the top with your other hand. You should be able to turn it through 45
degrees with moderate finger pressure.
Holding the tensioner adjuster at this angle, tighten the adjuster lock
nut. Put the valve cover back on and you are done.
On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Steve <loudmouth_70@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Listies:
>
> Time to change my timing belt on my 82 diesel. I've got the Bentley but I
> need more detail. Should I go with Haynes or maybe there's an online
> resource that spells out the process in more detail?
>
> thanks,
>
> Steve
>