Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2014 18:18:12 -0600
Reply-To: ralph meyermann <ralphmeyermann@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: ralph meyermann <ralphmeyermann@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 82 Diesel Timing Belt
In-Reply-To: <52E824E6.8070009@turbovans.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I recently encountered an issue with my new clutch assembly. It has 3
timing marks, my old one has one! Check to see what you have.
Velma 82 1.9L AAZ td westy
On Jan 28, 2014 3:45 PM, "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <
scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> there are two ways to do this job in my world..
> one is the 'cheater method' where you lock the cam sure ...and basically
> slip the old belt off, new belt on ..
> while working cleverly to get the marks to all stay where they belong
> ,especially the crankshaft mark in the bell housing window.
>
> that's the cheater/slam dunk method.
> the real right way is ..
> check the injection timing first ..to see where it's been running all
> this time ( in case you really like how it runs and you want to know if'
> it's been at .90 or 1.00 or whatever...and so you have an idea if it's
> been right or not . )
>
> remove cam sprocket from cam.
> this is becuase the cam sprocket is not keyed to the cam and fits at an
> infenite number of positions ..
> for example..
> say you have belt tension and injection timing 'perfect' on a t-belt
> with 20,000 miles on it.
> Every few years you check belt tension and maybe tighten it up a bit to
> comensate for very slight t-belt stretching over time.
> Maybe you check injection timing or you don't .
>
> maybe belt tension and injection timing were set perfect with 30,000
> miles o the belt.
> at 60,000 on the belt ..
> if you just slap in a new belt ...and adjust the tension ..
> the camshaft relationship to the crankshaft will be very close ..but not
> precisely where it was when the belt was put on right.
> the real right way to tension a new timing belt is ..
> with everything locked in place..
> but sprocket very slightly loose on the cam ..tension the belt ..
> then tighten down the cam sprocket bolt to the cam 'pretty good' but
> don't go for final torque quite yet.
>
> Do not try to get final bolt torque just yet , do that after you've
> removed locks, turned the engine a little, so you can hold a large round
> locking bar of some sort in a cam sprocket hole...
> then do the final cam sprocket bolt tightening.
>
> a classic screw up is to try to tighten the cam sprocket bolt to full
> torque using the cam lock plate to hold the cam from turning ..that will
> just break off half of the cam where the lock fits.
> I've seen that few times..
> and get this ..even by a guy that is a college class automtoive
> instructor ..who used to write for Haynes Manuals .
>
> When belt tension is right ..
> all marks line up perfectly after two full turns clockwise..
> you are sure everything is properly tight ( there is zero margin for
> anything to be less than perfect here )
>
> then ..check and adjust the injection timing.
>
> it does take a LOT longer to do it right ..including the extra step of
> checking the injection timing before you take anything apart.
>
> and ...this is how projects grow ..
> if non-hydralic lifters ..........valve clearances should be checked too ..
> and ...heck ..
> now we want to be sure glow plugs are working right ...and
> well...sure would be good to check injector spray pattern..
> and while we've done all this ....might as well check the compression ..
> and dang ..how long has it been since I changed out that clutch
> hydraulic fluid on that slave cylinder right in front of me ?
>
> have fun !
> jim lahey
>
>
> On 1/28/2014 9:47 AM, Jim Felder wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>>
>> To replace the timing belt, you first need some stuff:
>>
>> Timing Belt
>> Tensioner
>>
>> and you need some tools:
>>
>> cam locking plate (metal bar that goes into the slot at the back of the
>> cam)
>> Injector pump locking pin
>> Tensioner adjustment tool
>>
>> The Haynes manual, at least, gives you drill size you can substitute for
>> the cam locking pin and I think the thickness of the cam locking bar.
>> There
>> isn't much subsitute for the tensioner adjuster, although the first time I
>> did it I used some smallish bent nosed needlenose pliers. On an 82 you
>> will
>> need a 15 mm wrench for the tensioner nut.
>>
>> And you need to know what to do.
>>
>> First, get the engine to TDC. You will know it is at TDC by the flyweel
>> mark when the groove on the inside of the injector pump pulley is adjacent
>> to and aligned with the nearby groove in the mounting bracket. Further
>> proof you are at TDC is that the two cam lobes nearest you are pointing
>> up,
>> and further still that the cam locking plate drops neatly into the slot.
>>
>> If it doesn't drop neatly into the slot, you are either not exactly at
>> flywheel TDC or else your cam needs retiming. But that's another (related)
>> story.
>>
>> Drop the muffler. Thank me later.
>>
>> With all this done, remove the water pump pulley on an 82 or the whole
>> crank pulley (just four allen bolts) on later models. It's probably easier
>> to remove the pulley anyway. You may or may not have a stone guard on your
>> 82 setup that needs to come off, but it will be obvious way down low on
>> your engine.
>>
>> Loosen the tensioner. Slip the belt off little by little at its four main
>> points of contact:
>>
>> Injector pulley
>> Cam pulley
>> intermediate shaft pulley
>> Crank pulley
>>
>> Now slip the new belt back on, routing it from the bottom up.
>>
>> A mosquito's breath can get your TDC out of whack while pulling all the
>> tension you can out of the belt as you work your way up. Check it again
>> before proceeding.
>>
>> Get some belt teeth over the cam pulley, then turn your attention to to
>> the
>> pump. Notice that the locking pin is cocked a little to your left from the
>> pressure of the pump internals. With your thumb, preload this pin back to
>> get rid of the angle before slipping the belt on. You want it sticking out
>> or you'll be a tooth off, and you only have two teeth before interference
>> sets in. Check TDC again. If OK, tighten the tensioner slightly against
>> the
>> belt. Remove the locking plate and the pin, and use a socket wrench to
>> give
>> the crank four revolutions to check for interference with the valves. Hit
>> the top of the belt between the pulleys with a mallet. While turning the
>> adjuster wrench (its two pins fit the holes in the face of the adjuster)
>> turn it up and to the right, counterclockwise, while twisting the belt at
>> the top with your other hand. You should be able to turn it through 45
>> degrees with moderate finger pressure.
>>
>> Holding the tensioner adjuster at this angle, tighten the adjuster lock
>> nut. Put the valve cover back on and you are done.
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Steve <loudmouth_70@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> Listies:
>>>
>>> Time to change my timing belt on my 82 diesel. I've got the Bentley but
>>> I
>>> need more detail. Should I go with Haynes or maybe there's an online
>>> resource that spells out the process in more detail?
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>>
>>> Steve
>>>
>>>
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