Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (January 2014, week 5)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Tue, 28 Jan 2014 22:09:20 -0800
Reply-To:     "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Organization: Cosmic Reminders
Subject:      Re: 82 Diesel Timing Belt
Comments: To: ralph meyermann <ralphmeyermann@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAAj276wee4ys=AwO8cLweZUM+UbfrADgbWgGLuchJjn5Ox=tYA@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

That's very strange as diesel vanagon clutch pressure plates are indexed on 3 pins on the flywheel, thus the pressure plate only fits one way. And everyone I've ever seen ..I only use Sachs clutches .. has just one timing mark on it.

the pins are missing from the flywheel though sometimes.

On 1/28/2014 4:18 PM, ralph meyermann wrote: > I recently encountered an issue with my new clutch assembly. It has 3 > timing marks, my old one has one! Check to see what you have. > > Velma 82 1.9L AAZ td westy > On Jan 28, 2014 3:45 PM, "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" < > scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote: > >> there are two ways to do this job in my world.. >> one is the 'cheater method' where you lock the cam sure ...and basically >> slip the old belt off, new belt on .. >> while working cleverly to get the marks to all stay where they belong >> ,especially the crankshaft mark in the bell housing window. >> >> that's the cheater/slam dunk method. >> the real right way is .. >> check the injection timing first ..to see where it's been running all >> this time ( in case you really like how it runs and you want to know if' >> it's been at .90 or 1.00 or whatever...and so you have an idea if it's >> been right or not . ) >> >> remove cam sprocket from cam. >> this is becuase the cam sprocket is not keyed to the cam and fits at an >> infenite number of positions .. >> for example.. >> say you have belt tension and injection timing 'perfect' on a t-belt >> with 20,000 miles on it. >> Every few years you check belt tension and maybe tighten it up a bit to >> comensate for very slight t-belt stretching over time. >> Maybe you check injection timing or you don't . >> >> maybe belt tension and injection timing were set perfect with 30,000 >> miles o the belt. >> at 60,000 on the belt .. >> if you just slap in a new belt ...and adjust the tension .. >> the camshaft relationship to the crankshaft will be very close ..but not >> precisely where it was when the belt was put on right. >> the real right way to tension a new timing belt is .. >> with everything locked in place.. >> but sprocket very slightly loose on the cam ..tension the belt .. >> then tighten down the cam sprocket bolt to the cam 'pretty good' but >> don't go for final torque quite yet. >> >> Do not try to get final bolt torque just yet , do that after you've >> removed locks, turned the engine a little, so you can hold a large round >> locking bar of some sort in a cam sprocket hole... >> then do the final cam sprocket bolt tightening. >> >> a classic screw up is to try to tighten the cam sprocket bolt to full >> torque using the cam lock plate to hold the cam from turning ..that will >> just break off half of the cam where the lock fits. >> I've seen that few times.. >> and get this ..even by a guy that is a college class automtoive >> instructor ..who used to write for Haynes Manuals . >> >> When belt tension is right .. >> all marks line up perfectly after two full turns clockwise.. >> you are sure everything is properly tight ( there is zero margin for >> anything to be less than perfect here ) >> >> then ..check and adjust the injection timing. >> >> it does take a LOT longer to do it right ..including the extra step of >> checking the injection timing before you take anything apart. >> >> and ...this is how projects grow .. >> if non-hydralic lifters ..........valve clearances should be checked too .. >> and ...heck .. >> now we want to be sure glow plugs are working right ...and >> well...sure would be good to check injector spray pattern.. >> and while we've done all this ....might as well check the compression .. >> and dang ..how long has it been since I changed out that clutch >> hydraulic fluid on that slave cylinder right in front of me ? >> >> have fun ! >> jim lahey >> >> >> On 1/28/2014 9:47 AM, Jim Felder wrote: >> >>> Steve, >>> >>> To replace the timing belt, you first need some stuff: >>> >>> Timing Belt >>> Tensioner >>> >>> and you need some tools: >>> >>> cam locking plate (metal bar that goes into the slot at the back of the >>> cam) >>> Injector pump locking pin >>> Tensioner adjustment tool >>> >>> The Haynes manual, at least, gives you drill size you can substitute for >>> the cam locking pin and I think the thickness of the cam locking bar. >>> There >>> isn't much subsitute for the tensioner adjuster, although the first time I >>> did it I used some smallish bent nosed needlenose pliers. On an 82 you >>> will >>> need a 15 mm wrench for the tensioner nut. >>> >>> And you need to know what to do. >>> >>> First, get the engine to TDC. You will know it is at TDC by the flyweel >>> mark when the groove on the inside of the injector pump pulley is adjacent >>> to and aligned with the nearby groove in the mounting bracket. Further >>> proof you are at TDC is that the two cam lobes nearest you are pointing >>> up, >>> and further still that the cam locking plate drops neatly into the slot. >>> >>> If it doesn't drop neatly into the slot, you are either not exactly at >>> flywheel TDC or else your cam needs retiming. But that's another (related) >>> story. >>> >>> Drop the muffler. Thank me later. >>> >>> With all this done, remove the water pump pulley on an 82 or the whole >>> crank pulley (just four allen bolts) on later models. It's probably easier >>> to remove the pulley anyway. You may or may not have a stone guard on your >>> 82 setup that needs to come off, but it will be obvious way down low on >>> your engine. >>> >>> Loosen the tensioner. Slip the belt off little by little at its four main >>> points of contact: >>> >>> Injector pulley >>> Cam pulley >>> intermediate shaft pulley >>> Crank pulley >>> >>> Now slip the new belt back on, routing it from the bottom up. >>> >>> A mosquito's breath can get your TDC out of whack while pulling all the >>> tension you can out of the belt as you work your way up. Check it again >>> before proceeding. >>> >>> Get some belt teeth over the cam pulley, then turn your attention to to >>> the >>> pump. Notice that the locking pin is cocked a little to your left from the >>> pressure of the pump internals. With your thumb, preload this pin back to >>> get rid of the angle before slipping the belt on. You want it sticking out >>> or you'll be a tooth off, and you only have two teeth before interference >>> sets in. Check TDC again. If OK, tighten the tensioner slightly against >>> the >>> belt. Remove the locking plate and the pin, and use a socket wrench to >>> give >>> the crank four revolutions to check for interference with the valves. Hit >>> the top of the belt between the pulleys with a mallet. While turning the >>> adjuster wrench (its two pins fit the holes in the face of the adjuster) >>> turn it up and to the right, counterclockwise, while twisting the belt at >>> the top with your other hand. You should be able to turn it through 45 >>> degrees with moderate finger pressure. >>> >>> Holding the tensioner adjuster at this angle, tighten the adjuster lock >>> nut. Put the valve cover back on and you are done. >>> >>> >>> On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Steve <loudmouth_70@yahoo.com> wrote: >>> >>> Listies: >>>> Time to change my timing belt on my 82 diesel. I've got the Bentley but >>>> I >>>> need more detail. Should I go with Haynes or maybe there's an online >>>> resource that spells out the process in more detail? >>>> >>>> thanks, >>>> >>>> Steve >>>> >>>>


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.