When I had to replace the rearward header on my bus, Loctite Freeze & Release was absolutely key: About $20/can, and one can will probably suffice for removing both headers. Re. wrenches for the headers, I found a Channelock Nutbuster to be very useful for those fasteners deformed by rust. Best, d. -- 1990 GL
On 2/5/14, 8:41 PM, Automatic digest processor wrote: > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of > Steve Cotsford > Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 5:03 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Cleaning/Checking Cylinder Head Question Follow Up > > So what is the best and safest way to remove the cylinder head exhaust studs > and bolts or nuts ? Probably they have very many years of rusting so > soaking them in PB Blaster or Kroil is certainly going to be necessary. I > would guess driving on a socket of perhaps 1 size smaller than the nominal > size so that there is less chance of slippage and rounding off of the nuts. > Should one dispense with that and use a dremel thin grinding wheel to > carefully grind off one area of the nuts so that they can be broken off the > studs without stud damage? Cleaning off the threads remaining with the > correct size thread die so that new nuts will fit nicely? Once again > I would like to hear the opinion of those who have successfully done this > troublesome job. Thanks, Steve |
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