Date:         Wed, 5 Feb 2014 22:24:22 -0500
Reply-To:     Dan Barrett <dbx@POBOX.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dan Barrett <dbx@POBOX.COM>
Subject:      Re: Cleaning/Checking Cylinder Head Question Follow Up
In-Reply-To:  <20140206014125.924DF5A65B@pb-mx0.pobox.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

When I had to replace the rearward header on my bus, Loctite Freeze &
Release was absolutely key:

http://bit.ly/LApH6S

About $20/can, and one can will probably suffice for removing both
headers.  Re. wrenches for the headers, I found a Channelock Nutbuster
to be very useful for those fasteners deformed by rust.

Best,
d.
--
1990 GL



On 2/5/14, 8:41 PM, Automatic digest processor wrote:
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Steve Cotsford
> Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 5:03 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Cleaning/Checking Cylinder Head Question Follow Up
>
> So what is the best and safest way to remove the cylinder head exhaust studs
> and bolts or nuts ?    Probably they have very many years of rusting so
> soaking them in PB Blaster or Kroil is certainly going to be necessary.  I
> would guess driving on a socket of perhaps 1 size smaller than the nominal
> size so that there is less chance of slippage and rounding off of the nuts.
> Should one dispense with that and use a dremel thin grinding wheel to
> carefully grind off one area of the nuts so that they can be broken off the
> studs without stud damage?    Cleaning off the threads remaining with the
> correct size thread die so that new nuts will fit nicely?        Once again
> I would like to hear the opinion of those who have successfully done this
> troublesome job.         Thanks,   Steve