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Date:         Wed, 5 Feb 2014 19:32:12 -0800
Reply-To:     "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Organization: Cosmic Reminders
Subject:      Re: Cleaning/Checking Cylinder Head Question Follow Up
Comments: To: Steve Cotsford <cotsford@AOL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <BF7D8AC7-72D5-4397-BF86-0325DFC5DAB2@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hi Steve.. first ..spray penetrating oil, spray penetrating oil, spray penetrating oil.

the second you realize you will be undoing a metal fastener.. start spraying right away. Kroil is recognized as the best...orange can ...kinda expensive but goes a long, long way.

spray more than once, ...a few times day even, on any rusty threaded fastener.

In general....*never* go to undo *any* connection or fastener without at least giving it a shot of WD or something. Hose clamps ..hoses ..everything. 'generally.'

no, usually on the one size smaller socket. or only rarely ....a 14mm makes an extra tight 9/16ths .. but a 12mm on 13mm faster .. won't work unless it's really rusted away on the outside.

Most exhaust nuts are 13 or 12mm. There are few nuts or nuts and bolts that are 1/2 .. and some they are not any of these three....like china made '12.3 mm' nuts.

grinding away a nut without hurting the stud is fine. and ..you can it mostly ground away and not completly through...just super thin... then it'll just fail and/or pull-apart/unscrew easily.

it's always a good idea to chase all threads with tap or die.

I mostly could not get vanagon exhausts off without an ox-accetelyne torch.

anti-seize compound on all theads going back together.

On 2/5/2014 5:03 PM, Steve Cotsford wrote: > So what is the best and safest way to remove the cylinder head exhaust studs and bolts or nuts ? Probably they have very many years of rusting so soaking them in PB Blaster or Kroil is certainly going to be necessary. I would guess driving on a socket of perhaps 1 size smaller than the nominal size so that there is less chance of slippage and rounding off of the nuts. Should one dispense with that and use a dremel thin grinding wheel to carefully grind off one area of the nuts so that they can be broken off the studs without stud damage? Cleaning off the threads remaining with the correct size thread die so that new nuts will fit nicely? Once again I would like to hear the opinion of those who have successfully done this troublesome job. Thanks, Steve > > On Feb 5, 2014, at 7:38 PM, SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss ) <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM> wrote: > >> ah ha... >> the magnifying comment shows that if it's my comment on that you're >> referring to ..at least you read it and comprehended. >> >> I'm pretty sure I mentioned old tooth brush and spray carb cleaner.. >> on newspapers ..........as a low tech very effective cleaning method. >> >> sure works for me ...perhaps a bit labor intenstive compared to some >> other fancy method .. >> I think good hard work is a good thing .. >> so never bothered me to spent say half an hour cleaning a part like a >> cylinder head by hand. >> >> heads off in the van : >> it's all about Patience.. >> and Attention to Detail... >> and not busting rusted exhaust studs and bolts off.. >> and Patience..and Attention to Detail ... >> >> and Patience.. >> and Attention to Detail ... >> >> and Patience.. >> and Attention to Detail ... >> >> and Patience.. >> and Attention to Detail ... >> >> and Patience.. >> and Attention to Detail ... >> >> and Patience.. >> and Attention to Detail ... >> >> and Patience.. >> and Attention to Detail ... >> >> etc.


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