Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2014 00:24:30 -0500
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Rear wheel bearings and trailing arm mounts.
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Those bolts are property class 10.9. they do not drill easy. There are a
number of methods to get those bolts and bushings out. If you're afraid of
or can't get a real torch get yourself a 5" grinder with a thin cutting
wheel. Carefully cut through the rubber between the arm and the chassis
mount and then cut the busing and bolt. I use the torch to burn the rubber
out to get it out of my way and then just burn out the bolt and bushing. If
you use the two piece bushings from T3Technique you won't have to completely
remove the trailing arm and no press work. T3 also has the hardware you
need. You can also get the hardware from Bell-Metric Again these bolts and
nuts are PC 10.9 and fine thread. The washers if used need to be hardened
also. If the wrong hardware is used when it comes loose by the time you
notice you will need a welding repair to repair the damage. Do this right.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Felder [mailto:jim.felder@gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 5, 2014 10:22 AM
To: Dennis Haynes
Cc: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Subject: Re: Rear wheel bearings
This sounds like the way I would go if I were not going to replace the
trailing arm bushings at the same time. Back last year when. I was replacing
all the bushings and springs I pulled off the right side arm but the left
side would not come off. I hammered witha brass drift on the outside bolt
but it would not move. I got things hot enough to get the rubber smoking and
nothing. I finally put the car back together as I had to use it. This time
around I will be prepared to drill it out. If anyone has a replacement bolt
for the one I am about to demolish, please let me know.
Getting at the bearing ought to be trivial with the trailing arm off.
I suppose I should consider removing the axle nut with the trailing arm on
the car. I have a vise big enough for the job but I doubt the table it is
bolted to will hold up.
Jim
> On Feb 4, 2014, at 11:12 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:
>
> There is no reason the rear wheel bearing can't be done with the
> housing left on the van. After removing the drive axle there is plenty
> of room. You want some good tools including a "Dead Blow" hammer, some
> good flat punches, and some pipe or sleeve material so you use the nut
> to pull the shaft into the new bearings. A large drift punch and
> hammer will get the bearings out of the housing. You will also need a
> large internal snap ring plier to deal with that ring on the inner
> bearing. Not counting the CV joints should take about an hour to change
the bearings and seals each side.
>
> If you do get the urge to remove the housing consider new bolts and
> use Loctite. Torque to spec. It is not a good day when those bolts loosen.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim Felder
> Sent: Monday, February 3, 2014 6:34 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Rear wheel bearings
>
> I know it's in BTDT, I'm looking at the Bentley, and have Bell's
> excellent writeup to go by. But rear wheel bearings are still the last
> charted Vanagon territory for me. But, I'm about to have to do it.
>
> So, the deal is, you mightily chock the wheels, cheat the nut off, and
> then you can pull the hub off? Then the brakes and backing plates come
> off, and then what?
>
> Is Bell showing that you don't have to pull the stub axle out until
> it's on the bench. As usual, I could figure this out eventually, but I
> like to know in advance.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>
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