Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 18:03:58 -0600
Reply-To: mcneely4@COX.NET
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET>
Subject: Re: Mann Oil Filter and lifters Was:Engine Starting Problem
In-Reply-To: <WnVV1n00A08X5Fr01nVXyL>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
The filter will work with any oil. The filter has an anti drain back valve. So do a lot of other quality filters, and some that are not so good, at least I hear that they are not so good. Given the good marks given to both Mann and Meyle oil filters by a lot of people who know more than I do, and their availability and price from the online Vanagon parts vendors, I use them. mcneely
---- Eric Caron <ecaron1@COMCAST.NET> wrote:
> My van sits a long time between starts. How would this filter help and would it work with mobile 1 Synthetic?
>
> Eric Caron
> 85 GL Auto
>
>
> On Feb 25, 2014, at 3:59 PM, JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
> > Having a Mann oil filter will help prevent this.
> >
> > John
> >
> > On 2/25/2014 2:28 PM, Steven Shelton wrote:
> >> This is turning into a real nightmare. I reinstalled the AFM; now it
> >> starts fine, but the engine makes a loud clattering! It's done this
> >> occasionally over the years, but always went away pretty quickly. Now it
> >> won't stop. I've gone over it with a stethoscope and it seems to be
> >> loudest at the driver's side of the intake air distributor, but it's hard
> >> to pinpoint. I disconnected the fuel injector plugs and cranked the engine
> >> to see if something was bouncing around in a cylinder, but heard nothing.
> >> Can all this be related? It all started off with a shorted oil pressure
> >> sensor wire.
> >>
> >>
> >> On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 2:25 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:
> >>
> >>> Intermittent problems are often elusive. Will it start reliably with the
> >>> AFM
> >>> disconnected? If yes then you do have a mixture control issue and the
> >>> sensor
> >>> being disconnected is helping get past it. I would look for massive vacuum
> >>> leaks and wiring issues. Except for the O2 sensor which is a "consumable",
> >>> it is very rare for any of the other sensors to go bad. Again, the
> >>> connectors and wiring is more often the real problem.
> >>>
> >>> Dennis
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> >>> Steven Shelton
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2014 2:12 PM
> >>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >>> Subject: Re: Engine Starting Problem
> >>>
> >>> I meant that the engine turns over and over but it will not start/run. I
> >>> checked the intake air sensor (Bentley 1999 edition pg 24.28):
> >>>
> >>> 2-3 556
> >>> 6-9 557
> >>> 6-22 2697@18 degrees C
> >>> 2-3 and 7-9: ohms change as I moved the sensor plate
> >>>
> >>> Is this a definitive test or could there still be something wrong with
> >>> intake air sensor?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 1:59 PM, Dennis Haynes
> >>> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Cranking and starting are two completely different issues. The starter
> >>>> will crank (turn)the engine over if you removed the complete fuel
> >>>> delivery system and put it out to the garbage.
> >>>> Check the wiring on the back of the starter. The solenoid trigger wire
> >>>> may be loose and you're working near there is making or breaking that
> >>>> connection.
> >>>>
> >>>> Dennis
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
> >>>> Behalf Of Steven Shelton
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2014 1:18 PM
> >>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >>>> Subject: Re: Engine Starting Problem
> >>>>
> >>>> OK, as I said above, the engine would not crank at all, even after
> >>>> returning to it using a charged battery the next day. As soon as i
> >>>> removed the AFM, even with the #1 spark plug removed, the engine
> >>>> cranked right up.
> >>>> I checked the ECU connector, with the following results:
> >>>>
> >>>> 2-7 3213 ohms@16 degrees C
> >>>> at this temperature the reading should be 3000 ohm to 3500 ohm.
> >>>> I also checked at the temp 2 sensor, it was 3178 ohm.
> >>>>
> >>>> Other readings were:
> >>>> 1-7 10.64 V
> >>>> 5-7 infinity
> >>>> 6-19 558 ohm
> >>>> 7-25 0 ohm
> >>>> 11-7 14.9 ohm
> >>>> 12-7 15.1
> >>>> 14-6 3154 ohm
> >>>> 15-19 555 ohm at rest, it moved up when I moved the plate
> >>>>
> >>>> Does this mean conclusively that the temp 2 sensor is OK? Any
> >>>> suggestions on what to try next?
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
--
David McNeely
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