Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2014 23:19:56 -0400
Reply-To: TJ Hemrick <x53gunner@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: TJ Hemrick <x53gunner@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Tool choice and source
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All,
While updating my wheels, I needed a special tool and thought I'd pass
this on to everyone if they need it.
I have a pretty thorough tool box but, the other day, I found I needed
something new (again). While removing the rear drums (can't wait to pitch
those things for some discs one day), I have this:
<http://tinyurl.com/m8osucw> in both 46 mm and 36 mm sizes for hammering
off the rear axle nuts on various VW's. Great you say. Well, after
updating my rims to Audi rims, I needed longer studs. While only 10 mm
longer, they were more than long enough for the rims but suddenly, I could
barely angle the tool to even halfway tighten it. Putting it on square was
totally out of the question. The new (longer) studs were in the way. Oh,
I need a 46 mm *socket*. I have a 36 mm socket but not 46. So, in
disgust, I close up the operation and head home. I hit the internet and
find a variety of local places that might have them. FLAPS, Autozone,
Advance Auto, even Harbor Freight. No luck. BTW, the SAE size is very
very close to 1 13/16. I hit the user groups and find that BMW E46's use
the same size as do Ducati motorcycles. Yes, the internet rules. None of
the groups gave me the answer but I found a variety of sockets from the mid
$30's and all the way into the hundreds. Yes, hundreds. Now, this is an
extreme example but according to the *description*, it's a 1 1/2" drive. <
http://tinyurl.com/pwluagm> I've never used any drive bigger than 1" so
that was a shocker. But wait, the real shocker is it only costs $398.21!
OK, so it's specialty item. Anyway....
I found this at Tractor Supply <http://tinyurl.com/lol6z9p> It's actually
pretty nice. Seems rugged without being overly large or thick. Best of
all, it's $9.99. Seems like a deal. Paired with the 3/4" breaker bar from
Harbor Freight ($23) and it went very well tightening those rear axle nuts.
I used a little math to use my weight plus the length of the bar to come
up with the proper torque value and then did the "bounce" to line up the
cotter key. I will post an update IF it gives out when trying to take the
nuts off with an impact wrench. That's the real test. I will say that my
rims (again, Audi rims) do NOT allow it (the socket) to be used with the
wheel mounted on the drum/hub, but the Audi rims have a very tight fit
around the center so I can't see any socket worth that type of torque range
being that thin. Maybe for a price but for something used so seldom, I
didn't bother looking. I just have to use a special tool to hold the hub
still. Note to self, replacement studs are NOT capable of staying straight
if you try to jam a long breaker bar in between a few studs and brace it on
the pavement. Yes, you can tighten the hub nut but the studs will splay.
I'm just saying...
TJ
87 Syncro
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