Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2014 20:35:12 -0700
Reply-To: "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Organization: Cosmic Reminders
Subject: Re: Tool choice and source
In-Reply-To: <CAJRLdXYPFaSRez_gwMcPAHQgBp3hEGGXhM6kjNK7przEZ0nTpQ@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I'm suprised more members have not cut up a steel wheel ..
like around the middle...
then weld a solid, fat, even box section, 2 foot arm on there..
and you've got the perfect 'wheel holder' .
I made mine about 28 yrs ago ..works perfect on Vanagon and mercedes benz's.
3/4 inch breaker bar..the kind with the sliding piece is perfect..
I paid like $ 24 for mine, including now sales tax some 40 yrs ago..
still workin' fine. I cheat though ..I lubricate things.
that plus a 3ish foot cheater bar....works nicely.
On 3/11/2014 8:19 PM, TJ Hemrick wrote:
> All,
> While updating my wheels, I needed a special tool and thought I'd pass
> this on to everyone if they need it.
>
> I have a pretty thorough tool box but, the other day, I found I needed
> something new (again). While removing the rear drums (can't wait to pitch
> those things for some discs one day), I have this:
> <http://tinyurl.com/m8osucw> in both 46 mm and 36 mm sizes for hammering
> off the rear axle nuts on various VW's. Great you say. Well, after
> updating my rims to Audi rims, I needed longer studs. While only 10 mm
> longer, they were more than long enough for the rims but suddenly, I could
> barely angle the tool to even halfway tighten it. Putting it on square was
> totally out of the question. The new (longer) studs were in the way. Oh,
> I need a 46 mm *socket*. I have a 36 mm socket but not 46. So, in
> disgust, I close up the operation and head home. I hit the internet and
> find a variety of local places that might have them. FLAPS, Autozone,
> Advance Auto, even Harbor Freight. No luck. BTW, the SAE size is very
> very close to 1 13/16. I hit the user groups and find that BMW E46's use
> the same size as do Ducati motorcycles. Yes, the internet rules. None of
> the groups gave me the answer but I found a variety of sockets from the mid
> $30's and all the way into the hundreds. Yes, hundreds. Now, this is an
> extreme example but according to the *description*, it's a 1 1/2" drive. <
> http://tinyurl.com/pwluagm> I've never used any drive bigger than 1" so
> that was a shocker. But wait, the real shocker is it only costs $398.21!
> OK, so it's specialty item. Anyway....
> I found this at Tractor Supply <http://tinyurl.com/lol6z9p> It's actually
> pretty nice. Seems rugged without being overly large or thick. Best of
> all, it's $9.99. Seems like a deal. Paired with the 3/4" breaker bar from
> Harbor Freight ($23) and it went very well tightening those rear axle nuts.
> I used a little math to use my weight plus the length of the bar to come
> up with the proper torque value and then did the "bounce" to line up the
> cotter key. I will post an update IF it gives out when trying to take the
> nuts off with an impact wrench. That's the real test. I will say that my
> rims (again, Audi rims) do NOT allow it (the socket) to be used with the
> wheel mounted on the drum/hub, but the Audi rims have a very tight fit
> around the center so I can't see any socket worth that type of torque range
> being that thin. Maybe for a price but for something used so seldom, I
> didn't bother looking. I just have to use a special tool to hold the hub
> still. Note to self, replacement studs are NOT capable of staying straight
> if you try to jam a long breaker bar in between a few studs and brace it on
> the pavement. Yes, you can tighten the hub nut but the studs will splay.
> I'm just saying...
>
> TJ
> 87 Syncro
>
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