Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 08:48:53 -0700
Reply-To: Dick Wong <sailingfc@DSLEXTREME.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dick Wong <sailingfc@DSLEXTREME.COM>
Subject: Re: Rear wheel studs
In-Reply-To: <CAAj276x8+xSs8SgMQkkPavnNsMWiLVUSLPQDXn59trFP4tsMVw@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
General rule of thumb for bolt to nut engagement: From a strength
standpoint, the minimum length of thread engagement should be at least the
diameter of the bolt. For a 14mm x 1.5 lugnut/lugbolt, you should go for
14mm of engagement. If you can't measure the available thread length, you
can calculate the minimum number of turns needed by knowing the thread
pitch. In our case, the thread pitch is 1.5mm per thread. The nominal
bolt diameter is 14mm, therefore 14mm/1.5mm per thread = 9.3 threads. And
since there is one thread engagement for each turn, the minimum number of
turns is 9.3 for the nut/bolt engagement.
In the case of a lugbolt engaging into the brake drum, if the drum wall
thickness is less than the bolt diameter, there is no further strength gain
by going beyond the depth of the available threads.
If nothing else for a nut on a stud, make sure the stud is flush or
protruding from the top of the nut.
Hope this makes sense.
-Dick-
87 Syncro
On Thu, Mar 13, 2014 at 5:44 AM, Ralph Meyermann
<ralphmeyermann@gmail.com>wrote:
> Just want to make sure there's plenty of threads, pulling my small fishing
> boat.
>
> Velma 82 1.9L AAZ TD Westy
> On Mar 13, 2014 7:11 AM, "Ben" <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Mark has already answered your question. Don't bother with the caliper.
> > Just place a mark on the lugnut and count how many complete revolutions
> you
> > get out of it. The conical seat lugnuts can engage more threads as it
> > "reaches" further into the wheel compared to the ballseat lugnuts. By
> > virtue of their basic design, conical seat nuts have a wider cross
> section
> > that ballseat.
> >
> >
> > BenT
> > sent from my electronic leash
> >
> > On Mar 13, 2014, at 4:57 AM, Ralph Meyermann <ralphmeyermann@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > Another thing is that the bolt holes are recessed deeply in the wheels
> > making it hard for a visual for length, may have to use my digital
> caliper
> > and do some calculations. But still thinking 10mm longer would be best.
> >
> > Velma 82 1.9L AAZ TD Westy
> > On Mar 13, 2014 6:51 AM, "Ralph Meyermann" <ralphmeyermann@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> My westy originally came with steel wheels. The 14" VW alloys I needed
> >> longer bolts for the front and not enough threads on the rear for me to
> be
> >> comfortable. Thinking another 10mm of stud length would be fine. Have
> yet
> >> to size up wheel on the rear yet, the wheels came with new bolts and
> nuts.
> >>
> >> Velma 82 1.9L AAZ TD Westy
> >> On Mar 13, 2014 6:11 AM, "Ben" <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Jeff,
> >>>
> >>> That's how I've done it. Used a large section of pipe to act as a
> spacer
> >>> plus a washer on top. Lubed with WD40 and cranked away.
> >>>
> >>> Studs were EMPI "Nascar style" which is also offered by sway-away. From
> >>> the pics, it's the same ones most list vendors are offering now.
> >>>
> >>> The splines section on these studs are ever so slightly smaller than
> the
> >>> stock studs. That should make them easier to install.
> >>>
> >>> BenT
> >>> sent from my electronic leash
> >>>
> >>> > On Mar 13, 2014, at 3:02 AM, J Stewart <fonman4277@comcast.net>
> wrote:
> >>> >
> >>> > Ben, how can you replace the studs without pulling the hubs? Tried
> >>> that once and ended up stripping out the new stud on the first try, so
> >>> never did it again. I know you can do it one at a time, and pull them
> into
> >>> place by cranking down on a lug nut, but thats how I stripped one out.
> >>> Jeff
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> > Jeff Stewart
> >>>
> >>
>
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