Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2014 18:42:36 -0700
Reply-To: Zeitgeist <gruengeist@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Zeitgeist <gruengeist@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Syncro spring removal without using spring compressor
In-Reply-To: <BAY407-EAS3617AA05D827C53337DD3EDA07F0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Well, persistence appears to be working. I successfully got the LF spring
and shock in place. But only after I completed what turned out to be dry
run. While smugly celebrating my victory, I realized that I had failed to
put the bump stop back on. My neighbors probably enjoyed being regaled
with my obvious mastery of English vocabulary for various procreative
activities, expressed loudly and with much repetitive enthusiasm.
Turns out that by putting the rear wheels back on the ground, and
re-positioning the jack stands on the RS, I was able to create much more
stability. I also used a single screw type spring compressor to
incrementally constrain the spring between strokes of the jack.
Additionally, I found better locations for the ratchet strap, which really
helped to center the shock in the hole.
While I was successful this time using the method in question, I will be
purchasing a KTC A1047 before attempting this task again.
On Wed, Mar 19, 2014 at 3:10 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:
> The proper spring compressor is the right way, especially with taller
> springs and added shims. Without I find that removing the steering knuckle
> to get things out of the way is real helpful. The let the bottom tube of
> the
> shock go through the lower control arm so the arm hits the spring seat.
> Then
> use a garage type jack (with a saddle) to lift the control arm by the outer
> edge. This will give leverage and the arm will stabilize the shock so you
> can jack things into position. Use a tube or something to guide the shock
> stem through the hole and just get a nut and washer started. While doing
> this you should have the lower control arm mount bolt loose so it can turn
> with the arm. After this you can rework things to get that top rubber on
> later. The lower mount should be tightened when the vehicle is back on the
> ground so there is not twist in the rubber.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Zeitgeist
> Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2014 1:42 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: syncro spring removal without using spring compressor
>
> Blast from the past alert...
>
> So, I used Alistair's method to remove the front Syncro springs (and
> everything else), but when I attempted to reinstall, the van got real
> squirrely since it's not leveraging against the ground on the other side.
> I can see how this can work if you're doing one side at a time, but is it
> still possible to use the jack and strap method with the van up on stands?
> Strikes me as somewhat suboptimal if I tip the van up and off its stands
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 19, 2012 at 5:18 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> > You guys on the syncro list were right :)
> >
> > It can be done.
> >
> >
> > http://shufti.wordpress.com/2012/07/19/vanagon-syncro-front-spring-rem
> > oval-without-spring-compressor/
> >
> >
> > alistair
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Casey
>
--
Casey
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