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Date:         Sun, 23 Mar 2014 00:30:14 -0700
Reply-To:     "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Organization: Cosmic Reminders
Subject:      Re: 88 GL - Coolant Loss
Comments: To: JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <532E7971.5040505@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I would check the compression of the engine..or even better..do a leak down test.

if that was ok..I'd pressure test the cooling sysem. if that's OK I'd put in a new german t-stat .the cooler one ..70C I think ... then bleed it .. and bleeding does not have to be any huge process.. I have changed entire engines countless times and barely fussed with bleeding.

if 'bleeding is an issue' .. it's either technician error .. or there really is a problem in the van or engine somewhere.

what is the condition of the coolant itself ? is it old yuck, or new fresh, or ? how old is the radiator ?

if it's over 10 yrs old...consider it. Does the rad fan work ?

I like to see a van sit idling, fully warmed up ....fan cycling off and on .. like 2 minutes on,1 off say.. temp needle about in the middle.. it should be able to do that for as long as you want.. if it does that..pretty much it means the whole system is working like it should.

you really should do a leak down test. There really is no substitute for good testing and diagnosis.

cooling system issues are usually fun to sort through . gotta consider and do things in the right order, and rather than 'try this, or try that'...figure out what is not working like it should be working..what is leaking..what is not holding pressure etc. in an orderly fashion.

start with a leak-down test. That will, or can..tell you a lot. Scott

On 3/22/2014 11:04 PM, JRodgers wrote: > UH-OH!!!! > > That coolant loss episode Friday may have left Ol' Red with some engine > damage after all. Took him out on a run today with the rear heater hoses > clamped off and the engine ran perfect - EXCEPT - the temp needle ran > with the bottom of the needle on the top edge of the little light or > down so the bottom edge of the needle split the light. However it's cut > - for Ol' Red that's running hot. For fourteen years it's always been > the other way - top edge of the needle splits the light or the top edge > is just touching the bottom of the light. The only way I was able to > cool it down on this run to CENTER THE NEEDLE OVER THE LIGHT was to turn > on the the front heater full blast. Even then, on a long uphill grade > the needle tended to creep up. And this was a relatively cool day..... > > This is not good!! > > More checks tomorrow. I'm open to suggestions. > > John >


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