Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2014 10:03:48 -0500
Reply-To: Max Wellhouse <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Max Wellhouse <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
Subject: Re: oil cooler
In-Reply-To: <CAHTkEu+m7vFVKzQ7WrArfYE+_CyJ7p5QA41Xe4y6DiMnyumX9Q@mail.gmail.com>
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On 4/1/2014 9:37 AM, Don Hanson wrote:
> On Tue, Apr 1, 2014 at 7:01 AM, Chris S. <szpejankowski@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a Mocal cooler and thermostatically controlled fans mounted inside
>> the driver's side air vent at bottom. I'm using a Mocal sandwich plate with
>> braided stainless lines and aircraft type connections. The cooler is
>> shielded as to have max benefit of air coming through the vent. Push fans
>> sit on top.
>>
>> Best to use an oil cooler sized to precisely cover the air vent opening in
>> the engine compartment, in the same fashion a WBX air intake's shielding
>> covers it. Mount one larger fan inside in a pull configuration. Use
>> stainless braided lines to minimize oil pressure loss to expansion.
>>
>> Chris.
>>
>> The link below is to British American Transfer, a source for all kinds
> of oil plumbing parts, some unique to German cars. The Mocal/Spal fan/AN
> fittings/adapter plates and thermostats are available here to create an
> effective oil cooling system...Their site is somewhat awkward and be sure
> to page around to find the section on Porsche cooling, as those outline
> some systems, and some specific adapters from Metric to AN, etc.
>
> Be diligent with the execution of your install, if you add an oil
> cooling system. Try to design it so that should any part fail, the system
> reverts back to stock. .Mount the heat exchanger and all the lines
> carefully and isolate them from damage and vibration.
>
> I'd think that the WBX motors would greatly benefit from an oil cooling
> system beyond what they have now...judging only (my motor is 'other than'
> WBX) from what I often read about the oil warning lights coming on after
> hard driving, and people suggesting heavy oil weights to counter the low
> oil pressure issues. I know from careful monitoring of my own motors,
> usually all equipped with oil temperature and oil pressure gauges, that the
> temperature and pressure of you motor's oil are very interrelated..20 or
> 30F oil temp difference can mean 10-20psi oil pressure difference.
>
> http://www.batinc.net/
I had wise advise when I set up the cooler on my 79 Baywindow. First was
to minmize the length of the hoses and keep the cooler at oil sump level
or you'll have a lot of oil draining back into the crankcase at startup
each time. One way valves cold solve that problem, but I didn't want to
lose oil pressure by elevating the cooler and running long(read
EXPENSIVE) Aeroquip AN8 teflon ss braided hoses any further than
necessary. Some sandwich adapters have built in thermostats, but I
chose to use a Gene Berg adapter to the filte mounting and move the oil
filter out where it would get cool air drafting on it instead of tucked
in with the exhaust and cat. The in line thermostat came from Amot
Valves and you could buy any spring combination to suit your opening and
full flow temp ranges. That motor lasted wel lover 100k and the oil
tempat the dipstick never got over 210, even on the days I was hauling 2
canoes on top and climbing I-2 to Sewanee TN in 90 degree heat. The
cooler was from a junkyard grab of a Monte Carlo AC condenser; about 4"
tall and maybe 11x18". Yes, oil will flow through those microscopic
passages and get cooled bette than any copper pipe cooler you've ever
thought of buying. This thing looks like the $300 Harrison coolers the
Nascar guys use and snagging one with bent pipes(useless to the
mechanics) is a score, as you'll be cutting off the pipes and having
someone weld 2 12" AL NPT female nipples on to the cooler and you're set.
YMMV
DM&FS
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