Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2014 04:16:54 -0400
Reply-To: Mike B <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mike B <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: Vanagon Head Leaking Around The Head Nut(S)
In-Reply-To: <534C98F9.2060407@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
John, in your advice, your familiarity with mainly aircraft engines is
showing.
Excessive crank run-out is just not an issue on the WBX engine, and
certainly not the first thing to always check on all WBX engines.
These vehicles have no propeller or other such forces to cause excessive
crank run-out on the average VW engine. A top end overhaul is
frequently sufficient, as you said. The WBX bottom end is very strong
and rarely needs a line bore, unlike the air-cooled flat-fours, which
usually do, as they are weak in comparison.
I don't know anyone that just replaces piston pin bushings, as it's
just not a practical or common repair for VW's. That's done by a rod
rebuilder that has the machinery to deal with and check rods. If you do
anything to the rods during a top-end rebuild, it's usually just a
swap-out with a rebuilt matched set, which will necessitate new rod
bearings also.
Also, pulling pistons and cylinders on the WBX is a difficult job due
to the case water-jacketing enclosing the entire area, which
necessitates some special tools. The pistons and cylinders don't wear
much on a WBX that hasn't been abused. You usually will be able to get
away with honing cylinders, cleaning pistons and installing new rings
and top and bottom o-ring coolant seals.
As you said, these engines are very strong and built to last, if
properly maintained and driven.
Mike B.
On 4/14/2014 10:27 PM, JRodgers wrote:
> My familiarity with flat engines is mostly of the aircraft type, but
> there are similar considerations between them and the WBX and aircooled
> flat fours. The flat aircraft engines, the WBX and the aircooled VW
> engines are wonderfully made to be able to do a top overhaul fairly
> easy. First and always, one should do a crankshaft run-out check to
> determine wear condition of the crankshaft and main bearings. If good -
> or within limits - and oil pressure history is good - a top overhaul
> could/should be considered. Remove intake and exhaust, pull the heads,
> pull the jugs/cylinders and pistons and you are halfway there. New
> jugs/cylinders, pistons/rings and perhaps new rod piston pin bearings as
> necessary coupled with new/rebuilt heads will give you near new extended
> performance for a very long time. The WBX case and crankshaft are hell
> for stout and hold up well over time if not abused. It's been done many
> times.
>
> Just my $0.02!
>
> John
>
> On 4/14/2014 8:59 PM, Don Hanson wrote:
>> Jeff since you have the parts for an inline install, I'd say quit
>> messing with the WBX and just do the inline. If you use the 1.8 lite
>> motor with Digifant engine management you don't have to mess with
>> much at
>> all...Everything is pretty much the same between those inlines and
>> the WBX.
>> You can probably find one for about $200...and then you won't have
>> these
>> ongoing issues with leaks and stuff. I got my van with a 92
>> rabbit/jetta
>> 1.8 liter motor and was happy with that ...probably the same HP as
>> the WBX
>> motor and no leaky....
>> After a couple of years when I found a good deal on an ABA. ($300
>> complete) I kept the head and Digifant and bolted that onto the ABA 2.0
>> liter block. Many say this hybrid motor is just as good as an ABA
>> complete...I don't know about that but it works great and it's dead-nuts
>> simple...I don't need the ABA OBD stuff, nor did I want to mess with
>> swapping all the electronics and building a bump to clear the
>> manifold...
>> Took me about 3/4 of one day to swap that motor into my van rather
>> than
>> the 1.8...It is more powerful than the 1.8...
>>
>> You said you thought you'd done everything just right and very
>> carefully
>> and you still leak now..Why take the chance that that same scenario
>> won't
>> replay next time? Get a Rabbit and stuff that in there with your
>> already
>> in hand diesel parts....
>>
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