Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2014 17:27:34 -0500
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Question about westy poptop crossbar
In-Reply-To: <CAB2Rwfj_mkpv+2oSMcvSxCU=ZPRKSjmupTyZ3gSBgRorqpvNCw@mail.gmail.com>
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***BAD ADVICE ADVISORY***
DONT use any of the advice associated with this thread, including mine. Failure to do so could result in the loss of a canvas top or your life!
The crossbar, contrary to conventional Vanagon wisdom, IS integral to the rest of the top mechanism. The crossbar is the axle around which the spring mechanism pivots. Failure to align the inner and outer parts of the mechanism without all weight of the fiberglass top perfectly will result in a reassembly time for this task of about ten to the twelfth years. Think custom cut lumber shaped to fit the upper hing plate, scissors jack and step ladders not to mention brass hammers, drifts reamer and die for the deformed threads.
I was busier than a pair of jumper cables at an Alabama funeral trying to keep my canvas intact, which I miraculously managed to do.
I got the thing resprayed with silver anyway, but that's another story.
Jim
> On Apr 25, 2014, at 12:16 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I used a landscaping tie with supporting blocks and shims (tie too
> short) to support top. Lower end of tie and blocks were on floor up
> against the Westy rear seat front board. Not an optimal arrangement,
> as you had to be careful working around the tie. IIRC, I used stout
> wire to secure tie to pop top latch. In hindsight, I would've screwed
> a piece of 2"x4" (or just a screw?) at each end on top face of block
> to keep the tie from wandering L/R. Weight of top seemed sufficient in
> that regard though.
>
> I wonder if a properly backed (lower end) support between luggage rack
> and pop top would suffice? YMMV. ;)
>
> The top is heavy. The OEM springs in arms provide a great deal of assist.
>
> A cable runs through spring in each lower arm terminating at the upper
> arm "elbow". Some pics that should shed more light:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/PopTopStrutCableAndSpringEtc
>
> IIRC, I was able to install the cross bar after the arms were in place
> but I'm not certain of this. Sorry. Was doing R&D with combos of lift
> assist kit, OEM springs, no OEM springs, etc. Cotter pins-clevis shown
> used for R&D purposes. Copper piece shown was an attempt at an
> "everyman" repair. Would suggest welding in steel.
>
> If it were me, I'd take this opportunity to inspect the cables, arms, etc.
>
>
> Neil.
>
>> On 4/24/14, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Suart et al,
>>
>> What I was planning to do was just remove the crossbar, leaving the springs
>> and uprights in place. Only the crossbar has corrosion. I was wondering
>> specifically if there was any mechanical connection betweenthe crossbar and
>> the uprights so that the springs somehow interfered with the removal or,
>> worse, the thing would do something unpredictable with the top up and the
>> crossbar removed.
>
>
> --
> Neil n
>
> Blog: tubaneil.blogspot.ca
>
> '88 Westy http://tinyurl.com/c8rlw6p
>
> '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
> Vanagon VAG *Gas* inline-VR Engine Swap Group:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/d7gd5ej
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