Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 16:40:45 -0700
Reply-To: Mister Tom <TomsGroups@SALICOS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mister Tom <TomsGroups@SALICOS.COM>
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Blinking LED
In-Reply-To: <5363172d.8f258c0a.4fc3.ffff9bb4@mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hmmmm.... I was looking at a different capacitor.
Should have noted that being next to the regulator it would not be for
blinking LEDs.
Was not aware that the control circuit is inside the temp gauge.
I can't make that repair happen, but I do have a spare temp gauge.
If that doesn't do the trick for me, is there a way to disable just the
overtemp input to that circuit, and leave the coolant sensor working?
Thanks again,
Tom
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dbeierl . [mailto:dbeierl@gmail.com] On Behalf Of David Beierl
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2014 8:56 PM
> To: Mister Tom
> Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: RE: Troubleshooting Blinking LED
>
>
> >10 uF 16 V aluminum. Tantalum is better but a fresh aluminum will be
fine.
>
> If you're nimble you may be able to work from the backside of the circuit
> board without disassembling the gauge. If you elect to take the board out
to
> work on, you can Dremel the back of one rivet (digging slightly into the
case
> to completely remove the rivet
> flange) and pivot the faceplate on the other one. When you desolder the
> mounting posts, be aware that the heater wires are passed through holes in
> the post and then wrapped around it. You have to unwrap them before you
> can pull them through. Try not to break them as they are very difficult
to tin.
> Take care of the needle, it's very light folded aluminum and quite
delicate.
>
> The faceplate will slip back over the remains of the rivet and can be
secured
> with a drop of epoxy on the back if you desire. I used to remove it and
> substitute a ?2-56? screw and nut, but the other works just as well.
>
> You can substitute a brighter LED while you're in there, but it's not a
drop-in.
> The existing one is a five-volt self-blinker, in series with a ?5.2? V
zener
> diode. If you replace it you'll have to replace the zener with an
appropriate
> dropping resistor. RS have a slow-blinking diffused red that can be used,
or
> you can use a non-blinking super-bright (I'm somewhat red-blind, so I hate
> red LEDs in daylight. I've got one in mine that will stab me in the eye
and
> really get my attention).
>
> Yrs,
> d
>
| 
