Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 19:27:20 -0400
Reply-To: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Off topic Friday question on switches...
In-Reply-To: <CAHTkEuJoxyY6gkxT+qcOUsY+7pQF+Qo5KkhS_E5s7c5shCKLug@mail.g
mail.com>
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At 10:59 AM 5/16/2014, Don Hanson wrote:
> I have an induction-motored thickness planer, running on 220 single phase
>power...It came with a magnetic switch that has broken now 3 times and
>costs over $50 to replace...Hate that. I found a normal power tool switch
>in my box, rated for a bigger motor than this tool I am working on
>now...but it is a "normal" heavy duty push button power tool switch, made
>for 120/230 single phase or 208/230/480 three phase... This switch has
>four terminals on the back, two labeled "Load" and two labeled "Line"...
Ok, what the magnetic switch gets you is that if power to the tool is
interrupted, the switch will disengage so that the tool won't start
up by itself when power is restored. I have heard it alleged, on
what authority I don't know, that sooner or later if you work around
them regularly, you'll experience a magnetic switch engaging for some
reason other than you deliberately pressing the button. It was in
context of woodworking machines. I don't have an opinion on that.
So your conventional switch leaves you open to being surprised by a
tool that is still ON even though it has lost power.
> So the questions:
>
> Can I try to wire up this less expensive (and already owned) switch to
>make the 220 induction motor work? Right now I am using this tool, when I
>have to, with my power panel breaker box as the only switch....very
>un-safe and not at all convenient. I do need the use of this tool, but
>$50 a switch is now (in this tradesmen-unfriendly economic climate) not
>very feasible.
If the rating is sufficient, and bearing in mind the difference in operation.
> Second question: If I decide to try this hack-job, wiring for the wrong
>switch, how should I connect the wires? Do I take the black and white
>wires to the two terminals labeled "LIne" and continue on after the switch
>with the same colors out to the tool from the "Load" posts of the switch?
>Or do I just break one of the "Line" wires and use just one of the 'Line
>and Load" terminals, like on a house wiring switch?
Both your wires on 220V are hot to ground, so the switch ought to
interrupt both of them. If you look at your breaker box you'll see
that the 220V breakers are actually two breakers operated by one
handle, to interrupt both lines.
Yours,
David
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