Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 09:23:54 -0700
Reply-To: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Off topic Friday question on switches...
In-Reply-To: <00be01cf7121$cfee3cb0$6fcab610$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
OK, I think I'm getting it now.
The switch I have is a standard power tool switch...with a big green
"start" button, recessed into a housing to avoid accidental on and a big
Red "stop" button to slap if you get a sleeve caught or something....Right
now, I would have to drag a 300 lb tool over to the breaker box to shut it
off in case of an accident that involved a trapped body part or
clothing....(shudder! I cringe thinking about that...) Thinking about
that is something I have made it a habit to do whenever I start any of my
power tools....Hence my concern with this very unsafe switch-less thickness
planer.....
So I'll take both legs of the Line from my twist lock shop plug and run
them to the "line" terminals on the switch, then take the two tool wires
from the other side, the "Load" side and it should work...
On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 9:13 AM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com>wrote:
> Yes, as long as it's rated for the load. You have a double pole single
> throw switch, which is what you need for 220-240v.
>
> Two hot wires, each 120v, make a 240v line, and each wire must be
> switched, hence the DPST switch. The circuit supplying the tool will have
> a double breaker (two singles ganged together).
>
> The tool should have two black (or black and red) wires on each side (load
> and line), and the white is the neutral and is not switched. If you have
> only a black and a white wire, you have a 120v tool and you can switch the
> black wires using one side of the switch you have.
>
> The only caveat is that power tool switches are "safeguarded" in their
> installation to protect against accidentally being switched on, and are
> also mounted to be easily switched off, so you will likely be compromising
> the safety of the tool. If something gets caught in that planer . . .
>
> Frankly, I'd spend the $50, but this switch is better than no switch! But
> get the correct one ASAP.
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of Don Hanson
> Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 7:59 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Off topic Friday question on switches...
>
> I have an induction-motored thickness planer, running on 220 single
> phase power...It came with a magnetic switch that has broken now 3 times and
> costs over $50 to replace...Hate that. I found a normal power tool switch
> in my box, rated for a bigger motor than this tool I am working on
> now...but it is a "normal" heavy duty push button power tool switch, made
> for 120/230 single phase or 208/230/480 three phase... This switch has
> four terminals on the back, two labeled "Load" and two labeled "Line"...
>
> So the questions:
>
> Can I try to wire up this less expensive (and already owned) switch to
> make the 220 induction motor work? Right now I am using this tool, when I
> have to, with my power panel breaker box as the only switch....very
> un-safe and not at all convenient. I do need the use of this tool, but
> $50 a switch is now (in this tradesmen-unfriendly economic climate) not
> very feasible.
>
> Second question: If I decide to try this hack-job, wiring for the wrong
> switch, how should I connect the wires? Do I take the black and white
> wires to the two terminals labeled "LIne" and continue on after the switch
> with the same colors out to the tool from the "Load" posts of the switch?
> Or do I just break one of the "Line" wires and use just one of the 'Line
> and Load" terminals, like on a house wiring switch?
>
> I know this is sketchy stuff but it's really tough for a working man in
> the building trades now a days so I can't afford to do it right always when
> it comes to my own tools and expenses..I tried Goggling "induction motor
> wiring" etc etc...but I can't understand the wiring diagrams I get back...
>
> Respond off the list if you think you may be able to advise, and thanks
> Don Hanson
>
>
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