Date: Sat, 17 May 2014 10:22:01 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Off topic Friday question on switches...
In-Reply-To: <CAHTkEuJoxyY6gkxT+qcOUsY+7pQF+Qo5KkhS_E5s7c5shCKLug@mail.gmail.com>
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One question I would ask is "why does that switch keep breaking"? It is there for a reason most likely to prevent accidental restart after a power failure and it may also include motor overload protection.
I would beg, borrow, or maybe even steal the money to fix it right.
One thing about accidents and stuff these days is that blame has to be placed somewhere and insurance companies will look for the way to pass the buck. If an accident should occur and that machine was modified or safety devices removed things can get ugly. I brushed my leg with a chainsaw a few years ago. I went to the hospital to get the wound cleaned, not even sutures. A less than $1,000 bill created an accident investigation including suspecting it of being a work injury.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Don Hanson
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 10:59 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Off topic Friday question on switches...
I have an induction-motored thickness planer, running on 220 single phase power...It came with a magnetic switch that has broken now 3 times and
costs over $50 to replace...Hate that. I found a normal power tool switch
in my box, rated for a bigger motor than this tool I am working on now...but it is a "normal" heavy duty push button power tool switch, made
for 120/230 single phase or 208/230/480 three phase... This switch has
four terminals on the back, two labeled "Load" and two labeled "Line"...
So the questions:
Can I try to wire up this less expensive (and already owned) switch to make the 220 induction motor work? Right now I am using this tool, when I have to, with my power panel breaker box as the only switch....very
un-safe and not at all convenient. I do need the use of this tool, but
$50 a switch is now (in this tradesmen-unfriendly economic climate) not very feasible.
Second question: If I decide to try this hack-job, wiring for the wrong
switch, how should I connect the wires? Do I take the black and white
wires to the two terminals labeled "LIne" and continue on after the switch with the same colors out to the tool from the "Load" posts of the switch?
Or do I just break one of the "Line" wires and use just one of the 'Line and Load" terminals, like on a house wiring switch?
I know this is sketchy stuff but it's really tough for a working man in the building trades now a days so I can't afford to do it right always when it comes to my own tools and expenses..I tried Goggling "induction motor wiring" etc etc...but I can't understand the wiring diagrams I get back...
Respond off the list if you think you may be able to advise, and thanks
Don Hanson