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Date:         Mon, 16 Jun 2014 10:02:12 -0600
Reply-To:     OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: 88 GL - Failure to start - The Saga Continues
Comments: To: "kenneth wilford (Van-Again)" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <CANEuo0gJRwtt-6HLsr49mi5gVEYrKDVsNiY4TPVwRSMR0U2X0Q@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

While the IgnitionSwitch is a Cheap&Easy item to try EarlyOn in a Diag' ~ It IsNot the Cheapest&Easiest ~ The 2 Relays (FuelPump&ECUPower) in the BlackBox above the coil are Cheaper&Easier to Replace & I have seen them cause similar behavior to this a couple of times in the recent past ~

ORR ~ DeanB

On 16 Jun , 2014, at 6:47 AM, kenneth wilford (Van-Again) wrote:

> John, it sounds like a problem with the ignition to me. Like someone is > just shutting the key off after the van starts up. Of course it could be > that simple. Your ignition switch (electrical part) can fail and possibly > cause this problem. You might want to try one of those first as this is > the cheapest possibility. > > You could have a loose wire on the coil. I know you just replaced it but > recheck the wire connections there. I have had a bad end connector on one > of the small black wires to the coil, cause the van to shut off when > hitting a bump. New end connector fixed this problem. > > Hall Sensor or ECU. The two things beside the coil that control spark are > the hall sensor (inside the distributor) and the ECU (under the rear seat). > Unfortunately there isn't a good way to test either of these with a meter. > In fact the way I test for these is to swap in a known good unit and see > if that fixes the problem. So if you have a local person who is willing to > loan you his ECU or you have a good spare that would be something to try. > If the ECU doesn't fix it then I would suspect the hall sensor. I would > recommend getting a rebuilt distributor as doing this job yourself isn't > really easy and there may be wear inside the distributor at this point. A > rebuilt unit will give you ground zero on a part that wears out over time > and miles. > > Of course, as always, we stand ready to supply your parts needs. I have > rebuilt ECUs available for $250 and rebuilt distributors available for $259 > (plus core charges). I also have a supply of OE ignition switches for $29 > each (they are actually not easy to get at the moment). > > I look forward to helping you in the future. > > Ken Wilford > John 3:16 > www.vanagain.com > > > On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 12:22 AM, JRodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Didn't get a lot done on this today - but here is what I have so far. >> >> >> Fuel Pump Check - runs when ignition is turned on >> >> Injector Test - Pulled and tested - all four injectors are discharging >> >> Coil test via Hall sender -- Coil is good >> >> Injectors pulse when coil is tested. >> >> Computer control for ignition via Hall sender - Good >> >> Fuel pressure test: 30+ psi >> >> With a brief pause after the ignition switch is turned on - the pump can >> be heard running. After waning chime turns off - ignition key turned to >> start - Engine fires - runs briefly - then quits without a sputter - as >> if it has run out of fuel. >> >> Question: is there no fuel flow after initial start up? If so, what wold >> be controlling that (ECU but how? What's happening.) Or could it be that >> there is a fuel filter problem and just as there is greater demand for >> fuel there just isn't enough coming through. Gauge says there's still 30 >> + PSI >> >> The testing has begun to accumulate the data to find this problem! >> >> John >> > > > > -- > Thanks, > Ken Wilford > John 3:16 > www.vanagain.com


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