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Date:         Tue, 2 Sep 2014 21:13:53 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Rear trailing arm repair: Port Townsend (WA) Muffler?
Comments: To: Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Comments: cc: T3 Technique <sales@t3technique.com>,
          Steve Schwenk <syncro.org@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <CAB2RwfiKShMc54Zr_9peLdGe5qyAV5-nGng5UUO7AB3TNjqG-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

I forgot if your front arms are cast or also the pressed steel. If the rear rusted enough to be concerned you really need to look at the fronts if they are the pressed steel type. I have seen these collapse with quite remarkable results. If they are in good condition you want to occasionally spray wax type rust inhibitors into the internal cavities. I am at a loss as to how this patch should improve things. Are you saying it rusted to the point that the bushing areas was flexing? Don’t bother with the PB blaster and stuff like it. All you are accomplishing is adding more fuel to the fire. The trick to get these out is to cut them with a cut off wheel or burn out the rubber with a torch and then you can cut the bolt and metal sleeve. For your replacement mount consider the polyurethane offerings from T3Technique. I recently did the front end of Fun Bus with their products. There is no turning back now. Especially for the control arm mounts. I am hooked! Combined with the Syncro.Org springs, Old Mane EMU shocks and the 235/55-17XL tires it feels more like an Audi than a Vanagon. And with the big brakes up front it even stops. Very pleased!

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Neil N Sent: Tuesday, September 2, 2014 8:28 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Rear trailing arm repair: Port Townsend (WA) Muffler?

Got a 1/8" thick patch welded on. Should improve things. A small hole remains at midpoint of arm near tube bushing passes through. Shop was thorough and adhered to my requests. I went to Port Townsend Muffler and Fabrication, Port Townsend WA. Out the door in ~ half hour at $43

Weldor was certain that putting his ground clamp at part being welded would suffice. Batteries remained connected.

Patch likely made arm stronger at area of damage but I'll be applying PB Blaster to bolt-bushing area every day. Will replace both trailing arms soon. I have a pair of complete arms from a 1985 Vanagon. They should fit.

Thanks, Neil.

On Tuesday, September 2, 2014, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all. After washing my bus, disovered a rust hole at top of the passenger > side rear trailing arm near the cross bolt and rubber bushing. > > Should I disconnect the starter battery before fabricator starts welding? > > >

-- Neil n

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