Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 14:05:50 -0700
Reply-To: Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Rear trailing arm repair: Port Townsend (WA) Muffler?
In-Reply-To: <BAY406-EAS337B6A0965D4E4822C26CF2A0C40@phx.gbl>
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Hi Dennis. Ha ha. " quite remarkable results". Funny but of course the end
result isn't.
"Damage" on trailing arm was a ~ 3/8" rust hole and a few small cracks, at
top of arm about 1.5" rearward of the bushing. Hole and cracks were covered
with a welded on 1/8" thick patch. THe arm was not flexing but hole etc
were close enough to area of arm around the bushing, that I thought it
prudent to bolster that area with a patch sooner than later. Especially
since I'm far from home.
Excellent info and tips as usual Dennis!
The front arms are the old style; stamped metal with the 3 bolt radius rod.
They were in good shape last I checked about 5 years ago.
I wondered about protecting the cavity. At the very least id shoot a bunch
of Fluid Film inside the rear and front arms.
I've wondered about the t3 technique products and their longevity.
The vendor is certainly providing a great alternative and likely a better
solution. I.e. The bushings for the manual steering rack. I hope to install
4 of those ASAP. Thanks for the user input.
Traveling to Oregon,
Neil.
On Tuesday, September 2, 2014, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> I forgot if your front arms are cast or also the pressed steel. If the
> rear rusted enough to be concerned you really need to look at the fronts if
> they are the pressed steel type. I have seen these collapse with quite
> remarkable results. If they are in good condition you want to occasionally
> spray wax type rust inhibitors into the internal cavities. I am at a loss
> as to how this patch should improve things. Are you saying it rusted to the
> point that the bushing areas was flexing? Don’t bother with the PB blaster
> and stuff like it. All you are accomplishing is adding more fuel to the
> fire. The trick to get these out is to cut them with a cut off wheel or
> burn out the rubber with a torch and then you can cut the bolt and metal
> sleeve. For your replacement mount consider the polyurethane offerings from
> T3Technique. I recently did the front end of Fun Bus with their products.
> There is no turning back now. Especially for the control arm mounts. I am
> hooked! Combined with the Syncro.Org springs, Old Mane EMU shocks and the
> 235/55-17XL tires it feels more like an Audi than a Vanagon. And with the
> big brakes up front it even stops. Very pleased!
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
> <javascript:;>] On Behalf Of Neil N
> Sent: Tuesday, September 2, 2014 8:28 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <javascript:;>
> Subject: Re: Rear trailing arm repair: Port Townsend (WA) Muffler?
>
> Got a 1/8" thick patch welded on. Should improve things. A small hole
> remains at midpoint of arm near tube bushing passes through.
>
>
> Patch likely made arm stronger at area of damage ........
>
--
Neil n
Blog: tubaneil.blogspot.ca
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